Confessions Of A Tile Setter

Shower Tiles Getting Loose? This Is Most Likely Why

2012-02-09T21:25:00.000-08:00

In this example, you can see what was causing the loose tile. Old Termite damage now occupied with some kind of strange little tiny ant. We advise homeowners to call in professional exterminators, then we tear out the damage and replace it.

I was tasked with removing carpet, tack strip, pad, and any old vinyl and two toilets. Then, install 12x12 tile, grout, set toilets, install tackstrip at doorways, set carpet in two bathrooms then go on to project #2.

Loose Shower tile repair. After doing many of these recently here are some fairly accurate numbers. About 80% are infested with some kind of wood eating critter. Thus about 80% required a complete tearout and rebuild. The cost for this starts at about $1400 and a good average using builder 6x6 "el cheapo" tile running over $1700.

Here are the things that raise the costs of rebuilding your shower.

1. Upgraded tile or Natural Stone, better grade materials

2. Design elements (mosaics etc)

3. Niches (always advised)

4. Upgraded plumbing fixtures

5. Replacement of structural wood like bottom plate and studs

6. Other trades like Exterminator, plumber

7. Painting for trim and base

8. New enclosure

9. Change in design or Motif

10. Bringing up to code

11. Install new tub, shower pan

12. Demolition

OK, looking at these issues I have seen a modest $1600 repair run up to about $3500 very easily. A standard tub enclosure with no structural repairs but installing better tile, curved shower curtain rod, new modest plumbing fixtures with no design element or niche is right at $1800 to $2100 in these parts. Yea, some guys can and will do it for less but this is an accurate number here and now.

Think about this for a moment, my truck gets 14 mpg. A round trip to a job and back is averaging about 48 miles. At .29 cents a mile that is $13.92 per day in fuel alone. If I spend 5 days on a job that is $69.60 and I am not counting oil changes, insurance etc. So as we all are being hit with this insane economy we are forced to charge a bit more for general services.

Let's start with item #1 from the list of 12 above in more detail.

It is advisable to go with better, bigger, and thicker tile for your shower enclosure. Bigger tiles mean fewer grout lines and thicker tile means thicker grout that will last a lot longer.

Item #2 Adding a color stripe or mosaic strip in strategic places can give your shower some pizazz, interest and an artsy attractive flair. I highly advise adding some kind of mosaic into any shower enclosure to break it out of the same dull and boring 4x4 white builder grade ceramic tile.

Item #3 Niches, Niches are cool, aren't too expensive, $75 to $150 depending upon tile and design plan. Niches have a wonderful function and are worth every penny. They are an attractive alternative to clutter aroung the edge of your shower.

Item #4 Thinking of upgrading your plumbing?, now is the time to get that new set and forget mixer valve. Be it Chrome, Oil Rubbed Bronze, or Brushed Nickle, do it now because to do it later most likely will include tearing up some of your new tile to install it. And more money of course.

Item #5 We frequently find wood so damaged by bugs, dry rot or mold that it simply has to be replaced. Replacing a stud in a wall is an expensive proposition and here is why, If termites destroyed some studs and need to be replaced there is a better than 50-50 chance that it is on an inside wall in the house like a bedroom for example. When the stud is removed there are nails in from the bedroom side as well as the bathroom side. So expect damage in a room that right now may not have any, The sheetrock nails sometimes will not hurt it but expect it. Expect to pay $50 to $60 dollars a stud to remove and replace them. And I say them because if you are in a corner or there is a T, you will have at least two or three studs per corner or T. These are necessary structural members and cost a lot to remove and replace.

Platestock that is under the studs is replaced with pressure treated lumber and you can expect to pay at least $10 to $12 or more per foot to remove and replace that lumber. If we have to go get unexpected materials to get the job done right a run to the hardware store can run $100 easily not counting materials.

Item #6 Other tradesmen like a licensed plumber might be needed to remove and replace the toilet and that runs about $155 and up. Installing the tub shower mixer valve will drive the cost up by about 20% or more of the total estimate. Painters to fix damaged sheetrock, nail pops and holes, texturing, and trim paint. An electrician might be needed to add lighting or move wiring.

Item #7 Painting the trim is something often overlooked. Most of the time when we remove the base or trim something is going to get scratched or broken and here is why. Give a knuckle dragging Neanderthal trim carpenter and air gun to shoot your trim on and you will find their creed it this, if one fast air driven nail is good, then why not 50? I swear some of the base I have removed with much difficulty had enough brads in it to build the house. New base or trim will need painting.

Item #8 A new glass enclosure will run you installed about $500 with a frame. A frameless Glass shower enclosure will start at about a $1100 and goes up considerably. I've installed a a whole lot of round or curved shower rods and Expect to pay anywhere from $35 and up plus about $85 to install a rod that requires holes to be drilled for install. If it is Porcelain Tile, you can easily double that and here is why. It's extremely hard and very difficult to drill through. It is very hard on tool bits that require replacement and are expensive.

Item #9 If you are planning a design change to modern looking fixtures or going for that retro look, changing the architectural, visual, or emotional design, new applications will cost more. Fixtures start at about $125 on the low end and up not counting install.

Item #10 common issues we have to resolve that are new code directives can be a challenge. Take "fart fan" or the fan that evacuates moisture and smell from the bathroom for example, it used to be that we could cut a hole in the bath ceiling, run a wire from a switch near the light switch and run the vent tube into the attic. Today's new code requires we now have to rout the fan vent line through the attic and through the roof! There are other codes and do vary from state to state but compliance can run into the hundreds.

Item #11 If you eliminate the tub and opt for a full shower instead that will mean a shower pan. This will run you about $350 and up no matter how small or large. We frequently find drain lines encased in concrete where there should be soil and busting that out is going to cost extra labor. Count on at least $200 per day per person and any rented heavy equipment necessary. If we have to install a standard tub after removing the old one expect to pay around $200 for that. Removing a cast iron tub will cost you much more.

Item #12 Demolition. This needs to be done carefully really. You see these knuckleheads on HGTV and DIY gripping a sledge hammer or crow bar and begin bashing the hell out of walls, tile and sheetrock. You can save a lot of time, money, and materials if you plan your demolition and be careful about it. Use gloves, eye protection and a simple respirator. A demolition of bathroom flooring, say carpet and or linoleum should run about $180 at least and more if the toilet is removed and more yet if the base is pulled. Expect to pay around $250 to demo a bathroom floor. If it is tile that needs replacing it will be more. Demolition of a 5 foot x three foot tub enclosure should run about $350 to start with. Remember, when the material leaves your home, it still has to carried to a landfill and disposed of and more costs may be involved there. Also, do not expect no other damage to occur in a demolition. Always plan on some repairs not expected.

So as you can see, a relatively small tile crack can be a sign you are going to get a new bathroom. Loose tile indicates a subsurface issue that needs correction immediately. The problem is guaranteed to do one thing, get worse.

Cool Looking Travertine TIle Shower!

2012-02-05T18:30:00.000-08:00

Sometimes I complain about it, being so porous and soft, but boy it can sure look warm and impressive. When sealed with "Stone Enhance Sealer" that gives it that wet look, Travertine Tile can take on a whole new persona.

Often spun into the surface we can find a Quartz-like material with jagged edges that offer each individual tile it's very own unique personality. Sold in various grades and finishes Travertine can be unmatched in versatility and earthy color.

Poor grade Travertine will have many holes and gaps that are filled at the manufacturer with an appropriate color grout then polished so it blends into the surface. Yes, Travertine is filled with grout before it is boxed and sent to the retail shop. Better grades of Travertine can be tumbled because poor grades will fall apart in a tumbler.

I like working with Travertine because it is easy to work with and I like being able to fashion, smooth and polish the stone. The bad part is you have to make every cut with a diamond saw. I use a dry diamond 4 1/2 inch angle grinder for small cuts and carving that is not visible and the wet saw for the visible cutting.

If you are installing Travertine and are planning to use a Linen or Canvas color grout you will want to use white thinset adhesive. This will be much easier to clean and will match the grout better. White thinset adhesive is more expensive but well worth it when installing this Natural Stone.

Bright Chrome On Travertine Tile VS Oil Rubbed Bronze

2012-01-21T19:57:00.000-08:00

As we carry on remodeling bathrooms kitchens and such, what was old now comes back and is new. Remember when bright Chrome was so 'passe'. Well, It's back!

Oil Rubbed Bronze is still all the rage currently but this product, and I don't care how many hundreds of dollars you pay for these fixtures have an inherent problem-they can be damaged easily. Scratching Oil Rubbed Bronze bath fixtures is so simple, a 5 year old can do it!. That's right, a child can damage this stuff easily.

So can a ham fisted plumber, an over zealous cleaning lady, an incorrect cleaning product, or normal wear and tear. But, when it comes to Oil Rubbed Bronze, you may have a cure for the common scratch. "What might that be?", you probably have it in you junk drawer. "A black Sharpie". If you own Oil Rubbed Bronze plumbing fixtures, your Sharpie will be your friend. Just swipe it over the offending scratch and rub it in. Scratch gone visually. Not so with Durable Chrome.

Think about it for a minute. The Iconic 1957 Chevy. Festooned with chrome fixtures from a massive chrome front bumper to chrome caps riding the top of those fashionable fins, to the rear chrome bumper. This product was chrome and meant to withstand the outside elements too.

Chrome also goes with just about anything and is more durable than Oil Rubbed Bronze and Brass. Chrome also comes in different grades. If your Chrome Plumbing Fixture is a coating on plastic then the life expectancy will be shallow. Chrome on plastic will separate eventually and peel off.

Good quality Chrome Plumbing Fixtures in bathrooms and kitchens are timeless, go with virtually any color and come in many new and old world designs. You can find a style to fit any taste. Maybe not at the local Home Store but look around a bit. Amazon and many other companies provide Chrome Fixtures.

In the top photo we have Chrome in a Travertine Shower, and the lower shot is of a Gleaming Chrome Fixture on a dark Uba-Tuba Granite Counter top.

Bottom line, in an all out war of wear and tear, durability, style, ease of cleaning, and maintenance, Chrome is the winner. Oil Rubbed Bronze and Brass will easily scratch, stain, and wear. Chrome will kill both of those surfaces in durability.

I understand the allure of the Oil Rubbed Bronze and maybe that is the proper application of the design you have in mind. But, if you have the option, you can't go wrong with a good Chrome product. If you install Oil Rubbed Bronze yourself, be very careful. It is very easy to scratch into the brass. You must not use an abrasive cleaning solution for the same reason. You can wear through it easily.

We end up installing a lot of plumbing fixtures in Bathroom Remodels, Granite Counter Top installs and kitchen remodels. When it comes to fixtures, we've seen just about everything from Italy, China, and the US. We kinda know what is good and what is not so good. Everyone has their own opinion and I am reluctant to disparage certain products. I will however offer this advice about Oil Rubbed Bronze. It is low on the durability and ease of maintenance department.

Kitchen Backsplash And New Hood Vent

2012-01-09T20:08:00.000-08:00

The other day we were engaged in a kitchen remodel that included Granite Counter Tops and a Porcelain and Glass Backsplash. Remodels are always a challenge on both homeowners, contractors, and budgets. It is always a test of personalities, tastes, and basic construction.

In this case the homeowner purchased the materials. The backsplash tile was one inch square porcelain blocks with glass blocks placed in random places. This was installed over the existing wallboard which had some issues particularly around the switch plates and outlets.

The tile was in 11 1/2 x 11 1/2 inch squares with a paper backing that was reinforced with another nylon mesh backing. This stuff is fine until you have to cut it. You have to use the wet saw because of the glass blocks. If you try to cut them without water the blocks will shatter because of the heat in the cut. But, when you get this material wet-it falls apart and you are left with a handful of separate little tiles.

The problem this presented was I had run out of full sheets of tile and was left completing the last corner up under the cabinets with singular blocks. This is difficult when you are left with installing one inch tiles. After grouting the tile, a couple tiles slipped out of place slightly and posed a problem. You couldn't see them but the homeowner wanted them changed which was done.

If you use a mosaic tile, check to see if there is a paper or all nylon mesh backing. All mesh has some benefits but it is not as stiff as paper. But, when the paper gets wet it falls apart so beware of that.

All mesh is good but it can be hard to cut. You have to take your time and use a wet saw.

Tip- when cutting glass mosaic tile, cover the piece you want to cut with wide blue painters tape. Use a black "Sharpie" to mark you cut line. The line will not wash off, it will provide a stiffer surface to cut, and it will hold everything together.

This TravertineTile Photo Says A Lot

2011-12-11T15:12:00.000-08:00

Every day I see different tile materials, colors, textures, grouts and various colors. I see and install tile indoors mostly and some outdoors on patios, entries, and walkways. I see different ways of attaching tile as well as removing it which is often much harder than an install.

There are some things that remain constant however, and this photo above (click to enlarge) is a good example. I'll explain.

From the beginning, you can see that the back window shower wall has cut tiles at the outside edges. The installer here found the center of the tub and drew a vertical line. He then installed two horizontal rows of tile from the center working out to the sides. You will make cuts at the outside wall. Standard tubs are 5 foot in length and we figure 3 feet for each opposing wall.

So if you are figuring tile for your new shower just take 5 feet which is a standard measure for the tub length, then 3 feet for each end wall and you have 6 feet which adds up to 11 feet. Then all you need is the height. Multiply the height times 11 feet and that is a very close estimate as to how much tile will be needed for a standard shower.

Then, from the center again he cut a tile in a diagonal working the third row towards the corresponding wall. He then proceeded with the design element which is a simple diagonal of a smaller 4x4 Travertine Tile 4 tiles high as you can see.

This design element did not fit exactly within the grout lines although they were generous at about 1/2 inch of Sanded Grout but it still looks OK. This shower was enhanced with the inclusion of a similar material by just turning it on a 45 degree cut.

The basics are here. Find the center of the tub and work out. At the end walls, you also want to make your cuts at the corners. There is flexibility in any project, but this is basic stuff FYI.

Thinking About Re-Grouting Shower Floor Tile? Pro. Tips Here.

2011-12-02T08:05:00.000-08:00

If you are considering re-grouting your shower floor tile, here are a couple tips to help you make the right decision.

Your shower floor tile will not last forever as you know. The weakest link is the grout. There are many factors that promote the demise of your grout. Hot and cold from water, chemicals in water, PH of the water, chemicals used to clean your shower, soaps, shampoos, conditioner, and a general cornucopia of man made erosion.

What to look for,

When you see fit to consider re-grouting you can determine the grout effectiveness by removing the surface of the grout with whatever grout removal tool or process you select. Looking at the photo above, if you click the photo and blow it up you can see that I have removed grout and there is a small dark line. That dark line is where water is leeching up from the shower pan. That is not good. In this case I encountered about three small spots that were wet.

In order to do this re-grout job properly, a fan was placed in the shower and I waited 24 hours to allow the spots to dry before re-grouting. If you do not do this the wet areas will remain that way inviting black mold to grow under the tile. If you re-grout it wet you will be sealing the problem in, if it ever dries.

What to do.

1. Remove grout if you can down to the thinset with a grout removal tool. There are some new vibrating tools that do a super job (Harbor Freight about $30.00). I've tried the Dremmel grout removal bit and all I have to say is it needs to be a very small job or plan on going through boxful of bits. I quit using them because they didn't last long enough for me.

2. If you find wet spots in the grout know that you will have to dry it before grouting.

3. After re-grouting, caulk the corners both horizontal and vertical

4. Seal it, but be sure to caulk first. If you seal the tile, then caulk it, the caulk will quickly fail because it will not want to adhere to the sealed tile and grout.

5. Know that your shower will be down for a few days as you work through this process.

Other tips, "do not use a thin mosaic" or tile for the tile floor. The thicker the tile the deeper the grout can be and thus, more robust. Seal it once or even twice a year, I don't care what it says in the side of the sealer container for longevity. Use a larger tile on the walls, fewer grout lines = less opportunity for mold and water penetration. Do not use an acid based cleaner to clean it, it will deteriorate the grout like vinegar.

There, I hope some of this information will help you. My mission with this blog is to simply provide helpful information that will save you some time, money and aggravation.

I will update this post with a photo of the tools I use to remove grout shortly so come and and visit.

Tile Over Tile? "What?"

2011-11-26T16:07:00.000-08:00

I've been asked if it is OK to tile over existing tile. Well, that is an interesting question. I've never done that. I have tiled over a solid vinyl flooring but not tile.

Problems with that begin with adhesion. Second you have fitting issues that are instantly compromised. Are there surface cap, bull nose, corners or other common needed accessories that will fit. If you use an exotic adhesive, what happens if it leeches through to the surface of the tile, how and what do you clean it with?

I am sure it is possible, I would just be reluctant to do it and offer any kind of service warranty. There are other options.

Necessity is the mother of invention and tile is n exception. What if you have some well worn tile but don't want to replace it all. You can paint some of it. There are porcelain epoxy paints that can be used to refinish it. There are refinishing techniques that can refinish an entire shower but it will forever require the same care and maintenance that a PVC or Fiberglass tub would need. There are vinyl sheets that are designed to glue over tile like mosaics. There are patterns you can place over tile to paint designs over or texture.

A tight budget might demand a lesser than desired product and I understand that. And sometimes they turn out great. I've seen a couple great examples of painted tile but, it was the exception.

A worn tiled area can look amazing and new with a good cleaning and regrout with a good sealer. I know I've done many. It is also possible to pop out tile to install a mosaic or design element that may well fix a problem. Popping out tile is a bit simplistic. Sometimes it's easy, sometimes it's a royal pain in the fanny. But doable most of the time.

Look over many options before committing to some tile work. Something inexpensive might do the trick.

Best Bathroom TIle

2011-11-14T15:21:00.000-08:00

Some say Travertine Natural Stone is old hat. The problem with that premise is there are many different types and colors of Travertine. When you look at the photo above, you can see what I mean. This is an absolutely gorgeous floor. It isn't too slick, does not have an overabundance of grout lines, and goes with many colors and design ideas. I was somewhat out of favor with Travertine myself until I saw this floor.

This Travertine cannot look this good with a good "Stone Enhance" sealer however. This type is the wet look and will wear off in high traffic areas so routine maintenance is a must. If this tile were used in an entry area the use of rugs would be necessary.

Standard Ceramic tile such as installed in this example is a good choice. The surface is not too slick and does not get dangerous when wet. There are hundreds of sizes, styles, colors and textures to choose from. Try to stay away from rough or grooved tile as it is more difficult to clean. Porcelain is also good choice with the same traits as standard tile.

Always select larger tile for small spaces unless you have a specific design goal for your space. Fewer grout lines are easier to maintain although we have installed numerous bathroom floors with mosaic tile that worked out well. Larger tile is easier to install and this becomes important when on a tight budget. Installers will charge more for mosaic generally. Mosaic Tile requires more care and handling on install and more grout.

In this example I installed a simulated wood. This is actually Porcelain Tile and you would have to walk on it to tell the difference or get real close. This is a simulated hand scraped Porcelain Tile. It is not slick and not too coarse on the surface for this application.

In areas where there is a lot of moisture like in front of a tub or shower I have found that a towel matching floor towel or mat is a functional addition to keep your floor from getting too slick.

As I mentioned, try to use larger tiles, don't use rough textured tiles thinking they will be easier to stand on because the reverse can also be true. Floor surfaces with too much traction can be as bad as a slick one. Balance is the key.

Never use Slate in a shower or floor. I wouldn't suggest it for any application and here is why; if you were going to buy a new or used car and asked a mechanic, "what cars do you repair or rebuild the most?" and he told you a particular make and model, you would be reasonably assured not to purchase that make and model. For that reason I would tell you we repair or tear out more slate than anything.

I hope this offers a bit of insight into bathroom floors.

How Not To Figure Enough Tile

2011-10-21T16:18:00.000-07:00

I am frequently tasked with measuring tile for various types of man made Ceramic and Porcelain Tile. The same with Natural Stone Tile both rough cut, honed, tumbled and glossy finishes.

With all tile I don't care what it is please do yourself a favor and add 10% if possible for any project. If you are unable to to reach that minor amount then you might want to consider another type tile or design. Besides, if you are setting a very small space that may require 2 and 1/2 boxes just go to the next full box. Do not figure for the exact floor dimensions.

Here is why,

1.Broken Tile, In any project we can expect broken tile in the box from shipping. Here is an obvious clue, if the outside of the box has a corner bashed in you can expect broken tile on the inside.

2. Defects, although there is a relatively decent inspection process that insures the majority of tile in the box is 100%, after installing thousands of tiles I can report with authority they miss a few. And usually that few winds up making the tile install job a bit tense at the end. Particularly if the tile is shipped from some far off location.

3. Damage from setting and cutting, although we set a vast array of different tile they do not all act the same way when we score a tile with a hand tile cutter or cut tile with a good wet saw. Porcelain tile has an affinity to break wherever it wants on a hand cutter and Natural Stone can split on a natural geological seam almost without reason.

4. Miscuts, Well, you think we're perfect? Although I regret it, I have made a cut shy from time to time and you can too.

5. Damage repair, So you dropped a frying pan on your new porcelain tile and chipped it. With a spare tile you saved, the right grout color, you can fix the damage. If you have this happen to a natural stone you can possibly fill the chip with grout. Here in Texas, a lot interior floors are torn up so contractors can install piers thus busting up many floor tiles.

6. Color matching, a lot of you don't think about this but let's say for example you are about to repaint the bath. You can take a tile to the paint store to aid in color selection.

So, there you have it. If it takes 1 box of 12"x12" tile to do a job it is a very small job but if it is the last or a close out it can be a very big problem. Figure at least 10% or one box over if possible.

Here are some some solutions if you run out of that tile or discover you will not have enough.

1. Consider a design element for not just the remaining space but the entire project that might look cool.

2. Consider a different material that would fit although it must appear as if it were planned. For instance if you run out of a special surface cap you may have to use an entirely different material for the surface cap where it is needed.

3. We have installed wood flooring into deficit areas on floors and it looked and functioned well.

4. Rip it out. Yep, done that before too because there was not enough tile anywhere in the world that was exactly like it.

I hope this information can help you on your next project. Myself and other crews perform remodeling and tile installation regularly and I would like to pass this information on to you so you do not suffer problems that we deal with every day.

Tile Install Tools, Adhesives, And Use

2011-10-11T12:25:00.000-07:00

We have to maintain an assortment of tile install tools for every remodel, tile install, or repair project we encounter. There are various and common sense reasons for this assortment. This may be helpful on your next home do it yourself tile project.

First off in the photo, the trowel with the 1/2 inch deep notches is used for tile that is sized over 18 inches square or in length. This can change depending upon the level of the floor or surface it will be attached to. If you are installing Slate that is 12x12, you might want to use the deep notch trowel for that too. Flagstone or some of these Fake stone tile applications might require a deep notch trowel as well. This would apply for horizontal as well as vertical applications.

One recent example was a floor that had some piers installed in the interior of the home where I replaced tile that was removed so they could bust through the concrete slab. When they refilled the broken out space they left a 3 foot circle and was not finished smooth. I used an angle grinder to grind down the high spots and the deep notched trowel to set the tile. Using a 6 foot level allowed me to set the tile even with the rest of the existing tile.

Conversely, in a similar repair, I had to use the saw tooth 1/8th inch trowel to set tile using Mastic instead of Thinset because there wasn't enough room for a deeper notch trowel and the thicker Thinset to manage a repair. The alternative would have been to grind down the surface to make room for the replacement tile but that creates an enormous amount of dust. Not good.

Picture this; you are setting tile and the tile rises to the point to where a design element is to be installed like the one in this photo. I used a 1/4 inch notched trowel on the 12x12 tile to the design element then used the 1/8th inch trowel for the 4 inch design element. Two reasons for that, one is that it allows better adhesion and you are a lot less likely to to wind up with a ton of Thinset leeching up to the surface that you will have to clean out if you want to grout it. I use a grout float to pound the design element into the Thinset so it will be well adhered to the backer and it makes a better install.

Using a 1/4 inch trowel will place too much Thinset into this and it will seep to the surface and it will be difficult to clean it all out before grouting. If you do get a lot of Thinset seeping to the surface use a sponge to clean it out quickly and be sure there is enough room for the grout.

From time to time I simply use a Margin Trowel to apply adhesive to tile here and there. On floor tile installs where the tile is not fitting flat we may need to remove or lift a tile and place a daub of adhesive under a corner to get enough under it to level the tile out.

I use Thinset or Mastic for back splashes. Mastic will allow you to grout the job sooner than if you use thinset in this application. You will not have to find a bucket, a water hose, mix, then wait to use thinset. You just open the bucket and get to work. Since most customers want builders out as soon as possible, Mastic dries quicker and we can generally grout it same day and leave a complete job except for sealer. Using a an 1/8th inch saw tooth places a thinner layer of adhesive and it will dry fairly quick too. But Mastic is much faster.

We have other tools to make life simpler but these are the basics we use every day on Tile Installs and repairs .

Glass Subway Tile Install

2011-09-22T18:13:00.000-07:00

Installing Glass Subway Tile has it's own unique issues and consideration. Glass by itself has to be hand crafted with care. Regardless, I always end up breaking out the First Aid Kit a couple times before I am finished with a glass tile project. This one was no exception.

These glass tiles come on a mesh sheet and covers about 1 square foot and interlock. The difficulty in installing this type of tile is centering it within structured areas like the area between cabinets and above cook tops.

In these photos, the customer had issues with or questions with about 30% of all the tiles my associate had installed as indicated by the colored tags. The customer was concerned that the grout joint was far too narrow in some instances, too wide in others, and crooked in other areas.

I spoke with the homeowner and explained that about 98% of all the concerns would go away after installing the grout. It did. There are a couple items that need to be repaired and here is what they are.

Electrical outlets and light switch boxes. These are frequently installed lopsided, too far out or too far in, and can be a challenge to cut the tile properly that will allow the light switch or outlet to be installed where the switchplate cover-covers the cuts made in the tile. The plate covers did not cover the cuts in the tile because they were slightly too large.

There are ready made solutions if your switchplate or outlet cover does not cover the holes you made in the tile to accommodate the electrical box. There are over sized switchplate and outlet covers available that are larger that just might do the trick if you have an obvious errant tile cut that shows up.

The other solution is to simply break out that little tile and replace it, but not so fast---Often when you break out a tile that has been glued to sheet rock can be a disaster. More often than not, a huge piece of the sheet rock will want to come out with it. Now you may have two problems. A new hole in the sheetrock to cover between tiles and a new tile to hopefully fix the problem cut.

Other problems that arise when installing any tile are walls that are not square, window openings that are not square, electrical or plumbing fixtures that are not even. Cabinets that are not installed even with the counter top openings, crooked doors and trim, uneven sheet rock walls and other issues can make setting any tile a challenge. Glass tile is even less forgiving.

Glass tile can be cut with a decent tile saw that provides plenty of water. Heat is not friendly to glass tile and will cause it to chip wildly. You do not want to try to cut glass tile fast, let the diamond blade do the work and handle all the glass tile as if it were razor sharp. And keep band aids handy.

"Why You Should Not Install This Flooring"

2011-09-16T21:12:00.000-07:00

"Cork Flooring = Junk"

It's soft as a babies behind, warm as a sandy beach,
smooth as velvet supple jacket, and will scream in terror at the sight of your Stiletto High Heels!

A dropped pot or glass can easily destroy the finish. Think of the cork out of a wine bottle and how easy it is to penetrate the stopper to pull it out. Using this in a kitchen? I couldn't think of a worse application in a home except for maybe the driveway.

You will have to be very careful what you wear when you walk on it. You will have to be very careful what you use to clean it. In my view, it is among the worst choices one could make in flooring. I am still trying to think of a good application for this material. On the ceiling perhaps? Or walls? For like maybe a dart board? Yea, that's it! Or perhaps even a nursery for the babies room.

In all seriousness, I shouldn't disparage this material but after the installation of this stuff I know all I need to know to pass on this information if you are considering Cork Flooring.

I will say this material is very simple to install. Very easy to cut and manage. The hardest work on this project was floor preparation and scraping off the old linoleum. The vapor barrier had tape embedded in it that held it down and made that a breeze but I really question the "utility and use" of Cork Flooring.

I am all for ease of maintenance and utility of flooring and I don't see it in Cork.

Tile Tear Out With A Negative Air Pressure System

2011-09-04T20:26:00.000-07:00

Often tile tear out is one of the hardest jobs out there. That is why removing tile and hauling it off can cost as much as the install.

In this instance we covered all the cabinets, furniture, counter tops, bookshelves, appliances, pictures, and other objects. We also sealed off rooms that were adjacent and added a "negative pressure system".

What a negative pressure system consists of is a powerful fan box, a big flexible hose to run out a window and away from the house. This fan creates a vacuum in the room or rooms being worked on pulling all the air on the inside out. Any air from adjacent rooms being de-structed is pulled outside thus eliminating dust contamination throughout the house.

Generally, I like a more controlled, stable, organized approach to removing tile. In this instance my associates went "full dozer" with the chipping hammers and busted all the tile up as I swept and shoveled the shards into plastic bags.

There was a bathroom on the right and a utility room at the end of the hall. We used up about 40 plastic bags in this project because there was a lot of tile, thinset, and grout.

Here we have removed the tile and are about to begin chewing down the thinset.

I moved on to another job of my own and the crew finished this out. If you plan to remove a lot of tile it is a very dusty project and my advice is to use a "negative pressure system" to reduce or even eliminate dust.

This equipment can be rented at rental centers and are used extensively in mold remediation jobs. Most are equipped with interior filters but our systems are to just run the dust and air outside.

Next time you have to remove tile or do some dusty home renovation, consider a negative pressure system.

Exterior Design Tile Work

2011-08-28T15:04:00.000-07:00

We do not do a lot of this and this job was particularly difficult due to the extreme heat we've endured here in Texas the last few months. What advanced heat does to masonry anywhere it is this hot is not pretty.

In this example our contractor was tasked with placing tile on this outside exterior design wall in the City of Prosper. This is a particularly interesting piece because each piece of tile represented a hand print or a foot print of a child from a local school. Then the tiles were fired and made avalable for us to install on the wall with blue glass mosaic to represent water and Flagstone to represent mountains.

What is most difficult is the extreme heat. Thinset flashes very quickly so you have to place the tile fast mixing very small batches. The second difficulty is the various materials. We had 6"x6" tile that displayed hand and foot imprints with the child's name, then there was Flagstone of various sizes and shapes, then there was 1"x1" very thin blue glass mosaic that was to represent water. Trying to make all these work together is a challenge.

Getting this wall grouted was another matter. I started at 8:10 in the morning and without break or lunch I finished at 5:20 that evening. I just stopped long enough to down a bottle of water here and there. I was only able to mix enough grout to fill about 4 lineal feet of the wall because it set up so fast. Then cleaning was a challenge even with the reduced volume. The grout will flash set when it hits hot tile making the much job harder. I sealed this tile the next day.

Exterior tile can be done and look fabulous. My advice if you have some exterior tile to do wait until you have moderate temperatures below say 90 degrees. Mix and work small batches of material such as thinset, grout,
or even mastic to install tile. If you allow thinset to flash the surface skims over and tile will not adhere to it. If you allow grout to flash to the tile surface, getting it off is very difficult and requires a ton of extra work and is not necessary.

This job, despite the heat turned out great. Thanks to all the kids who participated in this artistic adventure that will be around hopefully for decades and thanks to the City of Prosper for their vision in developing this project.

How Much Tile Needed With A Pattern?

2011-08-21T16:44:00.000-07:00

In this example, I installed a Tumbled Travertine Mosaic tile that came on a Fiberglass Backing. One of the difficulties with this kind of tile is that (Click photo to enlarge) when you get up to the edge of the wall, you have some decisions to make about how to fill in the gaps.

In each Mosaic piece approx. 12'x12' there is a single 3'x6' piece and about 3 4'x4' pieces and some 2'x2' and 2'x4' inch pieces. These are placed into an interlocking pattern that repeats. The problem arises when you get close to a wall and have to fill in the area between the field tile and the walls. In this example we had to purchase more tile, about 8 square feet to make the pattern work out.

This is something you need to consider when using a mosaic tile on the floor. When I completed the job, we had 2 full sheets left and I had gleaned enough pieces from the remaining cut pieces to complete the job.

If you use a Mosaic material such as this example pictured, it would be advisable to be sure to get more than enough to complete the job and here is a way to figure that.

If your pattern repeats itself every 12 inches, and your walls are exactly 5'x5' you will need 25 pieces and you have added about 3 tiles extra or 10%. If your walls are say 5'x9" x 5', that nine inch side might have to be doubled. So the 5' 9" wall will need an additional 6 tiles. 5 might work depending upon the repetition of the pattern but know that you will need full tiles on the walls that have additional width or inches.

In the example here, the bath is a little over 5'x5' which required an additional 6 tiles to complete. 8 additional tiles were purchased just to be sure.

Now, I started the run from the right side and installed this tile from right to left. When I got to the left side there was about a 6 inch gap that required full files to complete and you can't turn these 180 degrees and make it work. Or, you cannot cut it in halve to make it work.

Some patterns just need more tile and you are going to have to accept the fact there will be some waste in an unusual design. Of course, the big issue with that is mosaics are by their very nature, more expensive. This stuff ran between $7 and $8 bucks a foot as I recall. I think it came from Floor & Decor.

This turned out nicely. Don't be afraid to use mosaics. One way to determine exactly how much tile you will need is to lay it out. Get a store sample and lay it out on the floor. Use a paint pencil or some kind of marker that can be removed easily and simply draw out each tile as if you were installing the tile. This will show you where you might be short and exactly how much tile you will need. This exercise will take some time but could also save you some money and trouble.

Believe it or not, I even do this from time to time for the same reasons. Before I commit to an install and if I feel there could be an issue with enough special tile, I'll lay it out to check. Further, doing this might present better options when installing mosaic tile.

How To Clean And Maintain Tile Grout

2011-08-06T11:34:00.000-07:00

Manufacturers Suggestions Below Dialog

How to clean and maintain that new or old tile and grout has been a fascinating challenge over the years. I am asked frequently "how do I clean this grout" or "Natural Stone Tile?" I am going to give you some answers and some "Manufacturers" solutions here.

Lets start with the nature of Grout. First, years ago we used to mix colorant into a Portland Cement and sand mix to develop a grout color. Not a lot of options were available and you were limited to the artistic professional installing your tile. With grays and darker colored grout it is kind of hard to tell when it is dirty. Not today. Today we have bountiful grout colors from "Customs" that you will find at Home Depot and "Mappi" that you find at Lowes. We use mostly Customs from our commercial suppliers but both are fine.
Both also offer as one might expect cleaning solutions, as in a liquid solution or chemical to clean grout.

I constantly hear of various home made solutions folks cook up to clean this or that but when you read propaganda from the actual Tile manufacturers they are adamant about the fact that less is better and use carpet pads in heavy traffic areas. As far as I am concerned, what the hell is the point? If I have to cover my beautiful new flooring to keep it from getting a little soiled because cleaning it is such a major hassle, why bother?

The very best way to clean grout is with an acidic solution but it is not advised by Grout Manufacturers. The decision would be yours, I use an acidic solution on my ceramic tile occasionally but I wouldn't use it on Travertine, Marble, or customers tile unless it was absolutely necessary like to kill mold. In a post some time ago I wrote about using some commercial tile cleaners to remove grout. Just spray it on heavy and leave it there. Soon it will break down the grout and begin to fall away. As I recall "Kaboom" and a couple others fall into that category. Having said that, an acidic solution will clean your grout but know this, you need to accept the fact that you may be losing a bit of the top surface of your grout and even your tile to reach the clean un-fouled grout under the surface. It is sort of like refinishing a wood floor. You will find that many engineered wood floors will only allow you to refinish the floor one time removing a small bit of the surface before having to replace it. Tile manufacturers urge that you "do not use" an acidic solution to clean your tile and thus your grout. Some grout cleaners are acidic but if used by manufactures directions it should be OK.

With grout, replacing it is an expensive and labor intensive process but not nearly as bad as replacing the tile.
An acidic solution on tile is "not recommended" by tile manufacturers as it will etch the surface of Natural Stone like Marble or Travertine. Acid of different types can also etch your ceramic and porcelain tile. If you have ever used that "acid mix" to etch a design on a drinking glass in an arts and crafts class, there's your reason.

Here are some grout solutions for floors.
1. dust mop frequently or vacuum
2. have and inside and out side carpet or pad to wipe shoes before entering home
3. after cleaning tile with mild soap solution per manufacturer, rinse with clean mop and water/hand washing is best
4. steam gadgets work well on grout lines

5. for spot stains in grout, you can carefully scrape out the surface to clean grout under the stain using a grout removal tool as pictured
6. brush grout lines with water and mild detergent
7. read what manufacturers suggest and try their products
8. use an acidic solution or commercially available cleaning solution knowing you can lose some of the grout surface to get a clean surface/know too that it can etch the tile surface
9. if you have cleaned your grout several times and it is getting deeper, maybe it's time to refresh the grout which is not very expensive. By refresh, I mean regrout the surface again without removing all the old grout
10. use steam to clean your grout with a steam cleaning gadget
11. use grout manufacturers grout cleaning products and follow instructions

Some solutions for counter tops
1. use grout cleaning products from grout suppliers
2. be sure grout is sealed again after serious cleaning
3. use steam gadget to clean the grout
4. use hard brush and mild cleaning solution then rinse and reseal after cleaning

5. use grout removal tool for tough stains to break surface to refresh grout underneath

Some solutions for shower walls
1.use a grout manufacturer cleaning solution and a stiff brush
2. use a steam cleaning gadget, there are many out there at various prices
3. use a commercial solution (acidic if you have mold) and stiff brush on problem areas-try not to leave material on surface more than manufacturers suggestion to mitigate any tile surface etching

Don't take my word for it, From Custom Building Products Website

Cleaners

Q: What should I use for routine cleaning on stone, tile and grout?
A: It is always advisable to use a biodegradable neutral pH cleaner such as Aqua Mix “ Concentrated Stone and Tile Cleaner”. A quart of concentrate, when diluted with water can yield up to 32 gallons of cleaning solution. Neutral pH cleaners are excellent cleaners that will not adversely affect tile, stone, grout or existing sealers.
Q: There are many household cleaners on the market. What do I need to be careful of when selecting a cleaner for my stone, tile or grout?
A: Many of the cleaners marketed for hard surfaces contain acid. Acid cleans by chemically attacking minerals. Thus, acidic cleaners can be very damaging to cement grout joints, and harm stones with calcium content such as marble, limestone and travertine. Acids also do a poor job of degreasing.
Q: Is it ever appropriate to use an acidic cleaner to clan my tile, stone or grout?
A: Yes, but consider acidic cleaners only for resolving a problem, and never use as a routine, ongoing cleaner. Acids work by “attacking” minerals. Remember that acid-sensitive stone such as marble, limestone and travertine, in addition to some metallic tile glazes will be adversely affected even by light acidic cleaners. Light acids such as Aqua Mix “Sulfamic Acid Crystals” or “Phosphoric Acid Substitute” is recommended for removing cement grout haze, efflorescence, rust spots and mineral deposit on acid resistant stone and tile. It is also recommended to remove efflorescence on cement grout joints. When using an acidic cleaner, always test first, pre-wet area to be cleaned with water, and rinse thoroughly with clean water to remove all acid residue.
Q: Are there any simple “rules of thumb” for cleaning tile, stone and grout surfaces?
A: Yes. Always use neutral pH cleaners for routine cleaning. If the tile or stone has a rough-textured surface it is a good idea to periodically use a soft scrub brush to agitate and release any contaminants from the lower extremities prior to rinsing. One of the biggest mistakes commonly made in using cleaners is that cleaners are never allowed ample time to dwell on the surface. Cleaners should always be given a proper dwell time (read directions) to perform effectively.
Q: If a liquid contaminant is spilled on my tile, stone, and/or grout, what procedure should I use for removal?
A: Don’t make the mistake of spreading the contaminant. The first step is to blot the liquid contaminant using an absorbent paper or cotton towel. Once all standing liquid has been blotted, a quick test can be done to see if a wetted towel can remove complete (indicating that there was no penetrating into the tile, stone or grout) or if additional cleaners/methods will be needed. These can range from using a strong degreaser such as Aqua Mix “Heavy Duty Tile & Grout Cleaner” to using “Poultice Stain Remover” to extract a deep-set stain.

And, from the Marble Institute, watch this;

A few final practical words from me.
OK, I can't speak for PH values and so on. No one is going to check the PH value or level in your water before cleaning you grout or tile, only in a cleaning product. I think most of us will do whatever it takes within our limited budgets these days to get the job done. I use Simple Green in a spray bottle mixed with water because it removes oil and grease from the counter top. Is the PH OK in Simple Green for tile or grout? My answer is "I don't care". I want a product that will do the job. Simple alcohol will remove a lot of stains and you will see Granite installers using Acetone on Granite surfaces all the time to remove their paint marks and epoxy adhesives.

So do this, use some of these ideas, clean grout to your satisfaction, then re-seal it to make it easier to clean regularly. I have found sealer used more frequently resists mold, soap scum, and other stuff. At least once a year and if heavy use, twice a year. Especially in showers. I don't care what the manufacturer says, 15 years is far too long.

If you get a tough stain fingernail polish remover can do the trick which is Acetone. For everyday cleaning try to go with manufacturers suggestions. After cleaning it might be a good idea to reseal it. Sealer is not a panacea for stains, it resists staining fluids to give you more time for clean up. But, it will make regular clean up easier. I have shamelessly provided some links to cleaning products manufacturers to make it easy if readers wish in the "Recommended Products" box.

Some Bath Style, Without Tile, Update

2011-07-31T11:44:00.000-07:00

A lot of us are honed to the fact that in order to brighten up your bath you need new tile. Not so. Well, unless your tile is aged and about to fall off.

In many remodels I have simply added Bead Board Siding and Molding, painted to add a bit of contrast, and painted the rest of the room to fit the homeowners taste.

Wood is a warm substance and easy to manipulate.It is easily cut and there is a ton of variety available for trim and accessories.

Here in another image of Bead Board Siding that I chose for my office. This wood is also on my ceiling with beams.

Ceramic, Porcelain, and Natural Stone have their place and I install a lot of it. But, you can do a lot as far as design goes by adding some wood in strategic places. Wood and stone are natural building products that we have used since man wanted out of the rain and sun.

As far as stone goes, here again there are any number of sizes and types that can be used to enhance the living space. From Flagstone to Austin Chalk I have seen many new and good looking applications where I would not have thought of using the material. If you are having trouble selecting a paint color for example, a stone tile or flat stone might do the trick.

When you contemplate a new Bathroom or Kitchen Remodel, don't forget how you may be able to use wood with tile. Of course you wouldn't use it in a shower, but there are many places you can add wood for warmth and flavor. The good news is you can paint it, stain it, part of it or all of it.

In these ceiling photos of my little office I wanted to give it kind of a Nautical Flavor and I did that by cutting the beams on a curve to give an impression of an old ships cabin. I added shelving all around the room to place my books, models, antiques and other possibles.

By the way, speaking of wood in bathroom, if you want it to last paint it with Marine Varnish. You can find it a West Marine or other boating supply service. We painted wood slats out at the barn in the wash rack for the horses. The vertical steel used to hold the 2x6 slats painted with rust proof paint have been replaced twice over the years. The 2x6 slats I painted with marine varnish have been reused and and if you hit one with some steel wool, they still look as new! Amazing stuff.

Do not limit yourself in interior design, look for other possibilities.

Surplus Tile, Is It Worth IT?

2011-07-27T20:52:00.000-07:00

So, you decided to get your tile at the surplus store. To be specific, a "Seconds and Surplus Store". The very nature of the word, "seconds" should sound an alarm. To be sure, you can save money on the initial purchase but do you save money in the end?

Well, that depends upon who is installing the tile be it Ceramic, Porcelain, or even Natural Stone.

When a customer says they purchased their tile at a seconds and surplus store, I plan a discussion with the customer quickly. They need to know up front I will make some effort to cull the bad stuff but not after it is in the thinset.

There really isn't that much money in this business despite what one thinks about the cost of tile installation. The tools and maintenance of tile setting and natural stone shaping equipment with fuel and other associated costs is very expensive. A blade for my wet saw consumes about $100 to $150 and I have two different ones and a set of diamond hook and loop pads to shape Granite or Marble runs about $65 each and I need 4 of those and they don't last very long. When you pay $49 for a simple angle grinder we are paying about $150. Saws and blades needed to cut Hardie Backer are short lived as the grit from that stuff makes short work of a $76 Skill Saw. There are even more consumables needed for this business that we have to have on hand like a box of deck screws. Enough to do a standard shower will run almost $9 but we usually opt for the $26 larger box so we don't run out. I go through a set of $26 knee pads in about two months when we are really busy and gloves about the same. Add dust masks, blue tape, plastic, floats, knife blades and you can see better why the expense.

First, "what is a second?" Well, it isn't first and it isn't the best!, and a tile setter will know in minutes after pulling tile out of the box. While we are on the subject of the box, there will be a designation on the side of the box that indicates "Choice" as being "First" or "Second Choice". But, there could be no description at all.

A "Second Choice" tile can have any number of irregularities from an obvious surface defect being a bump, discoloration, chip, crack, ridge, irregular size, and or color. It could be warped, mis-shapen, not square, or the surface texture could be rough when you wanted smooth or vice-versa.

When it comes to installing seconds with a professional installer, do not expect your installer to install this tile at the same rate $. It is far more difficult trying to cull and fit bad fitting and usually ugly tile in general. Rather than pulling tile from the box to go directly to the floor we have to see where we can cut out the defect if it is possible. Further, we frequently have to have more tile on hand to cover all the defective tile that we cannot use.

If you are installing seconds yourself, again you need to consider if working through the tile, checking to find the defect, size, color, finish, problems and where you can use or cut out the defect, I think you are faced with the question, "is using seconds really worth it?"

If you ask me, No. The bath floor I recently completed was compounded with off colored and bad fitting tile. This requires larger grout lines but there is still no guarantee it will look good. So my advice is to stay away from seconds besides, there are literally tons of very interesting Natural Stone, Porcelain and Ceramic Tile that looks great and really isn't that expensive.

Perfectly Good Tunmbled Travertine Back Splash. Ripped Out!

2011-07-14T20:37:00.000-07:00

Click to enlarge.

Sometimes we do this. It is rare but from time to time we are tasked with performing the unthinkable, ripping out several thousand dollars of brand spanking new tile only to replace it later with the new owners preferred choice of Tile.

We did not install this 4x4 Tumbled Travertine but whoever did performed a very decent job. Sometimes this goes with a new design plan and the various colors.

I am sure there are many out there that walk into a home or room from time to time and say to yourself, "boy is that ugly", "the first thing I would do if this were mine is rip it out!" "Or, this color in this room really stinks".

So it is with tile and other ceramics. This particular condo was awash in Travertine. Some of it was very good and some, well, could have been thought out a little better. You'll see what I mean. More photos to come.

And, here are the photos,

First, yours truly, checking the light with little battery hog camera.

Here are some shots of a lot of Travertine. It does look good in this application. Now if you click to enlarge the shower photo you will see a 1 inch strip above the seat. We try to avoid this. Our staff did not install any of this Travertine Tile. We just tore out the kitchen backspash but there are some good ideas in some of these photos that you might use on your next project.

A word about the seat in this photo. I have found a better option to be a corner seat or a seat that leaves the underside open.

This is a Walnut Travertine and includes large pieces and 4x4. The glass is frameless.

You can better see the 1 inch strip just above the seat.

They did a decent job on this floor. I would not advise using 4x4 on a shower floor because mosaics do a better job of forming to the shower pan slope.

Here is a nice example of using a various sizes and and a diagonal to add some style without breaking the budget but remember, the tile setter still has to cut, fit, and place this unique design work but it is from just two materials used to tile this shower. The Chrome fixtures worked well too.

This is a good idea to add a sense of style to this tub shower using an arch. I think if it were me, I would have brought the 4x4 tile out to run up and around the outside edge of the opening as trim.

Still, a nice job.

A very nice use of simple elegance here with the Chrome and white on a deep red and black Granite counter top.

This Travertine Bath Floor has a mix of natural colors that give it a certain character and the contrast to the water closet and tub. The wood base was a different color a sort of taupe.

This floor looks warm and inviting. You can see Stone Enhance, a tile sealer was used here extensively.

In this shot I didn't quite get the light right but in the next photo a little more detail is available. Again the top tile is on a diagonal with a couple simple cuts for a center strip design element.

This is a simple tactic to add a bit of style. The tile setter could have installed the Natural Stone tile and stacked it in a straight vertical line, or a brick stack. But, what was done here was a combination with a diamond pattern on the top and I want to tell you, doing all this isn't easy. A design like this takes hard work, some thinking, and care to be sure all the pieces fit properly and do not appear out of place. An installer also wants symmetry in the design which is a natural instinct.

This design band takes a lot of work when every other tile is a cut. Cutting tile, even if it is Travertine which is by it's very nature a softer Natural Stone, takes a lot of work and time to select, mark, cut, and install.

I said there was a lot of Travertine in this place and it does really look good here. Click to enlarge.

I hope that some of these shots might instill a spark or an idea for your next tile project.

"Is It Wood Flooring?" or "Is It Porcelain Tile?"

2011-07-03T14:01:00.000-07:00

Some manufacturers have done an excellent job of copying what Nature has given us. This Porcelain Tile Bathroom Bathroom Floor looks exactly like hand hewn and stained wooden plank. But, it really is porcelain. Much easier to maintain and clean, this flooring can solve the water and wet problem in a bathroom or kitchen and still appear as if it just came from the mill.

Looking down the length of this bathroom, for all intents and purposes it is a wood floor. The homeowner also went with a dark brown sanded grout to bring it all together. In this shot the base has not been installed yet and wallpaper has not been removed but that will happen shortly. This bath is getting a makeover.

In this shot I installed 13x13 porcelain tile, large niche with Granite Silestone shelves and a 3 inch Marble and Travertine Mosaic band around the top at niche level. This worked out pretty good as you can see. Since the homeowner went with a darker Mosaic, it was natural that the homeowner selected Oil Rubbed Bronze Plumbing Fixtures as well that are in the following shots.

So, there you have it. A bathroom project idea that might work for you. As far as the wood plank goes, there are literally dozens of styles and textures to choose from. I think these planks came from Floor And Decore and were of good quality. A word of caution with material, the surface chips easily on the edges. I don't know why but I had to select each piece to install carefully being sure there were no tiny edge chips and cut of the chipped tiles.

One thing bad about this kind of material is the equipment needed to cut this special sized floor tile. It is 6 inches by 24 inches. You can cut the 6 inch cross cut on a hand cutter easily but, slicing down the length of this material is another matter. I maintain two tile saws. One is a commercial Target Diamond Wet Saw and the other is a simple portable table wet saw. It works like a simple table saw and would allow me to run tile through it even if the piece was 3 foot to cut. That is something you should consider if installing this kind of tile yourself. If the cut is going to be covered by base for example, you could probably make these long cuts with a diamond bladed angle grinder. But, if technical issues arise you will need smooth cuts with a diamond wet saw.

This floor tile is also very, very heavy. So take that into consideration if weight is an issue for any reason. My reason for not wanting to select this material for my floor is simple. My back and knees are really hurting and I don't need any more abuse.

Turn Your Tile 45 Degrees For Added Style

2011-06-26T16:45:00.000-07:00

OK, you have a very small space and you want to do something to make it appear a bit more stylish without spending a lot more money on the latest Metal and Glass Mosaic. There are some simple ways to add some style and still not go over budget. Maybe you are a homeowner and want that extra design element to spiff up the over all look of your tile job.

Whatever the case turning you tile 45 degrees or using a Diamond Pattern can sure help. For one thing it can lead the eye down the middle of the space or splitting the area to make it appear larger. In this example, the homeowner decided, rather than adding other design elements to turn the tile as you see here.

I placed the center of the tile in the exact middle of the doorway. Depending upon the size of the space or room, I generally always do it this way. You also want to be sure that the tile is also in the middle of the doorway on either side. Click to enlarge.

In this shot I have installed the tile and will grout and set the carpet the next day. A Diamond pattern, Bias, 45, whatever you call it, this design works well on floors and walls.

This is the second doorway into this bath. As you can see the tile point doesn't quite hit the center of this door and the tip of the tile will not be centered either but it's close. The decision to center the tile in the first shot is because that is the primary traffic and sight-line area. This doorway is ancillary.

This design element takes a little more time and care to figure and cut. For that reason expect to pay anywhere from $1.60 and up more per square foot on this type of Tile Design Element. This application had about 30 square feet. There were only 7 full tiles or field tile in the entire 30 square feet. The rest were cuts. That is another reason the install cost is higher. This was also Porcelain Tile which is good, but is also a very hard tile. Cutting this tile on hand cutter, even a good one can be a crap shoot. It often breaks wherever the hell it want's to.

How To Water Proof Shower Or Deck Before Tile Install With Merkrete

2011-06-17T21:38:00.000-07:00

It's messy. It's black. It conforms to any angle easily.
It water proofs. "What is it? Merkrete". Click photos to enlarge. This is a deck before we sealed this with Merkrete

We primarily use this in commercial applications but it has been finding its way into homes for showers and decks. With new custom showers being built in different shapes we've found this to be much easier to install. If we were to use the typical rubber membrane we are often left with no choice but to slice the membrane to get it over and around various corners and shapes.

With Merkrete, we can cut a fiberglass membrane as shown to place it in corners and seams and simply paint on the Merkrete.

In this shot I am cutting strips to place in the corners. You want to have at least a 2 inch overlap from 1 piece of the fiberglass membrane to another and you want about 4 to 6 inches of the membrane up either side of a corner that is either vertical or horizontal.

In this shot I have installed the fiberglass. You do this by painting Merkrete into the corners then placing the membrane quickly into the Merkrete. You then paint another coat on top of that. I typically coat the corners twice then again when covering the entire surface. The fiberglass membrane is only needed in the corners and edges or around fixtures.

In this shot I ran some fiberglass around this little drain. This install was on an enclosed deck with a drain that always leaked. I like to use a regular paintbrush to install Merkrete and a roller with larger areas. I paint two coats in the corners and two in the field overlapping about two inches where the corners and the field meet.

In this shot I am almost done. Stepping out the door
I painted myself into the house. We tiled this the next day.

To install Merkrete I suggest you will need;
1. Coveralls or clothing you don't care about
2. scissors to cut the membrane for corners
3. 4 or 5 inch paint brush for corners and the place the membrane
4. Paint roller for larger areas
5. Paint booties for your shoes

After install, the area will be ready the next day. It dries pretty fast however. We've successfully installed many showers and tub surrounds with this material. It is used to waterproof basement walls and has found it's way into residential use. I would highly suggest using this stuff to seal your entire shower including the shower pan. Merkrete makes the shower pan part of the entire structure.

Anatomy Of A Floor Tile Repair In Photos

2011-06-05T14:32:00.000-07:00

(Click on photos to enlarge)
This is a common problem we run into with wood floors. A toilet flange, valve, upper bowel, or water line get's loose or old and starts leaking. Unseen perhaps for some, time damage from water invasion takes hold and destroys the subfloor and components. In this shot I have busted out the tile and removed the rotten part of the subfloor.

To break out the tile, I placed a canvas drop cloth over the tiles to be broken out and broke them up with my old but trusty 28oz Vaghn framing hammer. This tile was installed over 1/4 inch "Durrock". I really hate that stuff because it comes out in pieces so you have have to beat the hell out of it and reduce it almost to dust then vacuum it up with the shop vac.

In this shot I have installed 2x6 joist members to support the new subfloor on its' way. I attached these with 3 inch deck screws into the existing floor joists that were in fine condition.

In this shot I have installed the 3/4 inch plywood subfloor that will be covered with 1/4 inch Hardie Backer. I attach the Hardie Backer with 1 and 1/4 inch deck screws. I did not get a shot of the Hardie Backer as the batteries in my camera ran out. Notice the dark grout lines. After years of wear, tear, cleaning and use the white sanded grout was ready to be freshened up anyhow.

Here I installed the customer supplied tile. It was a bit larger and wasn't an exact match but this is what was requested. It actually worked out well. The toilet was to be installed by a plumber later the next day.

Here is the completed repair. You can see that there is a slight color difference in the replaced tile and I had to rip 4 tiles down the the right size to fit. But, it was a better alternative than replacing the entire floor at this time.

Here is a shot as you enter the bath. You almost don't notice the repair and it will be even less obvious when the toilet is installed. I went ahead and re-grouted the entire floor to so the confluence of the new grout to the old grout would be less noticeable. This makes the repair less visible which is what we want to achieve.

This repair took most of the day. It clearly isn't very large, only 6 tiles replaced, but here a sample break down of work and materials required. When performing a repair such as this we have to assume some relative facts. One is that the contractor may not have a small piece or 3/4 inch plywood or other materials on hand for the job, which means you have to figure in the purchase of all necessary materials needed like shown below.

Materials
1. 1/2 sheet of 3/4 inch plywood (about $9.00)
2. full sheet of 1/4 inch Hardie Backer (about $6.00)
3. 1 small box of 3 inch deck screws for the joists (about $10.00)
4. 1 small box of 1 and 1/2 deck screws for the plywood and Hardie About $10.00)
5. 1 bag of Speed Set / adhesive to set tile (about $13.00)
6. 1 small bag of Sanded Grout (about $9.00)
7. Tear out and removal of old tile and damaged flooring
8. 1- 8 foot #1- 2x6 (about$5 or $6.00)
9.labor, tools, bits, blades, wear and tear

So you see, even what seems like a very small repair involves a lot of stuff to make it happen. There is about $70.00 in materials including tax here and the customer supplied the tile. These numbers will vary from state to state due to taxes and retailers but they are close as I recall. This project worked out to about $63 per tile x 6 tiles which includes materials listed but it could easily have been more if more flooring had to be replaced.

In this instance we got lucky. The damage was limited to a relatively small area and it was repaired. This post and associated photos are intended to inform customers and do it your-selfer's what is involved in some repairs and why you might ask, "how much for that repair? you're kidding right?".

This is why some folks think repair numbers may seem ridiculous but when you get down to details you can better understand them. We now also have to seriously consider fuel prices unlike never before. A simple round trip drive to the home center for a part or material that popped up could easily burn $3.80 out of someones pocket. When fuel costs as much per gallon as a little meal at McDonalds, that creates a new problem we have to deal with. Most contractors today will charge a run charge of up to $100 each time they have to run to Home Depot to get an unexpected part or more.

Grout Cleaning Tips And Ideas

2011-05-26T11:37:00.000-07:00

I get a lot of questions from customers about how to clean their newly installed tile. This is not, unfortunately a simple answer.

Although we use the same grout be it non-sanded or sanded, tile can change. The way you maintain that tile can vary dramatically. If you use a Natural Stone like Marble, Travertine, Limestone, or Coral Limestone, in a shower or floor, you will have to maintain this stuff with extreme care to protect the surface. These surfaces are porous, soft, and will absorb liquid and PH levels in the water can effect the surface color. Many Marble Tiles are even "Gem Quality". These look good on the shower wall and when cut and polished can make a beautiful ring, necklace, cufflinks, or bracelet.

Sealer is a must but after many washings and use depending upon how you maintain this floor, the sealer will deteriorate over time exposing the surface to accept water and everyday chemicals that can discolor or stain the Natural Stone material. It is not easy to get back that original shine and luster after surface damage and it's a real shame when we have to bust up Natural Stone to replace it.

When you have Porcelain or even standard 4x4, or 6x6, or 12x12 and larger basic ceramic tile, the surface should be considered as a plate of glass to make it simple. But, you could stain a white grout if you were to use and leave Windex on it for example. So, use a mild soap and I hate to say this but your bath or shower requires regular cleaning.

Cleaning grout tips.
1. More frequent cleaning reduces the possibility of mold growth and soap scum build up
2. Use a mild soap and mild abrasive sponge to clean
3. There is no problem with most commercial products like Lysol Four in One Cleaner or Comet Bath Cleaner if used properly. Just be sure product is rinsed off. (keep in mind these will reduce the life of the grout and sealer that may have been applied)
4. Steam cleaners can do a fantastic job too
5. If you need a serious scrubber, find Stainless Steel Wool that will not metal stain the material
6. Mix a little Baking soda and water to form a paste to help scrub tough spots
7. CAULK THE CORNERS, SEAL IT, and when the caulk begins to break down RE-CAULK IT AND RESEAL IT . note-sealing, then caulking can make the caulk less affective or want to come off in a long strip.

Vigilance and care will make your shower or bath last a long time. Example, my wonderful neighbors across the street asked me to rebuild their shower a short while ago. All our homes were built about 25 years ago. Although we tore out their tub shower and just built a large and spacious shower, the tub shower combo they had really looked good!

Why did their tub shower look better than mine even though they were exactly the same? Well, Miss Gloria is Dean of shower maintenance! She cleaned their shower regularly, caulked it and kept up with it. As for my tub shower, although I clean it regularly I seal it more often too. Sealer acts kind of like "Rainex" for the shower. As a matter of fact, I gotta do that this weekend.

I would suggest this, get some Tile and Grout Sealer from your local Home and Garden Center. There are a couple types. "You do not need the Stone Enhancer Type Sealer". Just get the basic Tile and Grout Sealer then do this.

Clean all the soap scum and mold off the tile and allow it to dry. Use a fan to speed things up. Remove caulk if needed then re-caulk and allow to set up. Then reseal everything. Use a foam brush and cover all the tile and grout. Let it set about 5 minutes then wipe away the excess and any streaks you may see.

If you do not clean all the soap scum and water spots from the tile, you will be sealing them onto the surface of your tile. Remember, anything with an acid base can do bad things to tile and grout. Many commercial products have an acid base like "Kaboom" for example and will over time reduce your grout. Just be sure to rinse that stuff off (Kaboom is also an effective bug killer if sprayed directly on the critter's, even roaches! I have found).

Use the fan if you have one when taking a shower to reduce the moisture held in the bath and thus reducing mold build up.

Prevention is the key here. Use some of these tips and we will not be tearing out your shower soon. A simple or typical bath surround of 3 foot x 5 foot x 3 foot and about 5 feet high of 4x4 tile start at about $2000 in these parts of the country. Add new plumbing fixtures, a g;ass door, niche, a little mosaic tile, tear out, and now you've blown through $3000 easily. Add Natural stone or an exotic tile and new we're closing the gap on 5 grand. So use some of these tips even though we'd love to build you a "WOW" shower.

And, while I am at it, here is a list of "Do's and Dont's when it comes to Natural Stone from the Marble Institute.

Dos and Don'ts

DO Dust mop floors frequently
DO Clean surfaces with mild detergent or stone soap
DO Thoroughly rinse and dry the surface after washing
DO Blot up spills immediately
DO Protect floor surfaces with non-slip mats or area rugs and countertop surfaces with coasters, trivets or placemats DON'T Use vinegar, lemon juice or other cleaners containing acids on marble, limestone, travertine or onyx surfaces
DON'T Use cleaners that contain acid such as bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners or tub & tile cleaners
DON'T Use abrasive cleaners such as dry cleansers or soft cleansers
DON'T Mix bleach and ammonia; this combination creates a toxic and lethal gas
DON'T Ever mix chemicals together unless directions specifically instruct you to do so

As you can see, they say NOT to use commercial cleaners and I agree but I have seen many instances where commercial cleaners are needed to stop dangerous mold growth! You have to ask, what is worse? That is why I included some commercial products if used properly. And, I admit I have used them improperly but the goal was to destroy the growth of mold which can be dangerous to the very young and elderly.

"Seconds & Surplus Disaster Tile"

2011-05-18T21:12:00.000-07:00

We see it all the time. The homeowner wants to save a couple hundred bucks on materials so they shop A Seconds and Surplus Store.

If you have a tile contractor and you are supplying the tile, you had better tell them what you purchased and here are some things you will need to understand.

1. The contractor is under NO obligation to even start the project at the agreed upon price.
2. If you do not tell your contractor you purchased seconds, he will quickly find out and he will hate you!
3. The contractor is under NO obligation to cull the good tile from the bad, cut off the chipped corners, and otherwise try to make a silk purse from a sows ear.
4. The labor needed to separate the good tile from the bad tile, take extra calculations in making cuts, making sure there is enough good tile to even complete the job, the result may very well not be worth it.

In this example, the homeowner decided to purchase the floor tile from a Seconds and Surplus operation. In the tile photo (click to enlarge) you will notice that every single tile has a chipped corner. If you can see it, it probably is significant enough to cut off or discard.

Here, since we had to install this simulated wood tile we were able to cut some of these chipped corners off but not all. We had no idea we were going to install seconds. It takes more time because we feel obligated to use the best material to do the best job. We have to think about the placement of each tile to minimize exposure of the damaged surface.

If we are questioned about the chipped corners that show up, you know the answer.

In my view as an installer and having dealt with this issue, pick the good stuff. Surplus Tile is one thing, Seconds or #2 material is quite another thing and could cost you more in the long run. We will add additional labor when we have to cull this kind of tile and there is the likelihood you will get a less than stellar job.

We want to give the customer what they want. And if they want us to install #2 material we will. It will cost more and you need to buy more due to the nature of 2nds. So I really don't think buying tier 2 has any economic advantage.

So, if you are a "do it yourself" type think about some problems you may encounter with seconds. If you simply have to buy tier 2 or second choice tile, buy at least 15% more than you really need. Go through all the boxes and select the best ones and think about where you can place the bad ones.

Here are some tips for using or installing "Second Choice Tile".

1. With white tile, you can use Porcelain Paint that is used for appliances to fill chips.

2. You can also buy epoxy paint that comes in tile grout colors. You will need to find a professional tile supplier for this paint to repair chipped tile but it's there.
3. Spend the time to go through all the tile to find the best for the most visual areas.
4. Use a good wet tile saw to saw cut bad tile sections off that may be needed

The economy being what it is I understand the need to save money. Surplus yes, #2 not so much. Be careful.

How To Avoid Bathroom Disasters

2011-04-30T09:46:00.000-07:00

Check out these photos (click to enlarge). These are photos of bathroom tile remodel projects and others where we remodeled or repaired problems.

This is a shower that was constructed with Travertine Natural Stone Tile. Being a very porous tile it provides an excellent environment for Stachybotrys Mold. This mold can be very dangerous for those who suffer allergies, asthma, are very young, very old, or have a breathing issue. This bath was cleaned with bleach, regrouted, recaulked, and returned to service.

This bath should have a larger ventilation system to remove as much moisture as possible between showers. Fewer items like multiple shampoo and conditioner bottles that would allow easier and more frequent cleaning would also help. More frequent use of a good mold and mildew remover would help although these chemicals are not beneficial to Natural Stones. Keep that in mind when selecting tile for that next shower rebuild.

In this photo, you are looking at a toilet water feed line. You will notice that there is no valve handle. That is because that useless piece of crap arbitrarily blew off stem and all and began to quickly flood the bathroom. I was able to shut the water off before it got into the Brazilian Cherry Wood Flooring in, my office!

Solution?, look around your house, if you have any plastic valves get them replaced soon as you can. There are new plumbing fittings called Shark Bites and others that require no soldering that if installed correctly, are fast and work well. I have no long term information for these but we have used them regularly for temporary water stops when installing new plumbing cylinders or new fixtures.

If your toilet gets clogged up, have a professional come in to clean it out. Yes, you can rent the hardware to do it yourself but if this happens and you break off the cleaning equipment inside the sewer line, you are totally responsible for the new expensive problem.

However, if a service comes out and they break their equipment inside your sewer lines, at least you will have the option of shared responsibility for the problem. This problem added at least $2000 to the bathroom remodel for repair.

When you start a Ceramic Tile Project, especially on an exterior environment such as this front entry tile, it would be advisable to complete the project. This job was started by a very busy and courageous homeowner but never was grouted and suffered a couple other problems. This led to water invasion that loosened more tile.

After I completed the repair below.

These are just some of the issues that can effect your home. Some are obvious and some are not. Prevention is a much better option than the rebuild in today's economy. More to come.

Tile Backsplash Design Element Issues

2011-04-24T20:56:00.000-07:00

In this photo, (click to enlarge) I was tasked to install this backsplash with a 4x4 inch Tumbled Travertine on a Bias or diamond pattern. I was to install 4 special design elements and some inch x inch glass that were to be added at random throughout the Travertine Backsplash.

What really made this challenging is that the sink had a large basin and a smaller basin that housed the garbage disposal. This placed the center of the sink off-set as well as the faucet. This was very time consuming considering all the switches, power outlet boxes, window sill, and diamond pattern.

I tried to pull some symmetry into the design picture by placing the 4x4 glass squares where I did as an illusion. However, when you expand the photo you can clearly see that the upper left design glass square is a farther distance to the faucet than the upper right design glass square on the right of the window.

Some ideas.

A better solution in my view would have been to run a design strip across the entire bottom or middle of the Travertine backsplash. We could have alernated two different colors of Travertine or we could have run the tile on a brickstack. Instead fo Travertine there are hundreds of other materials and textures we could have employed.There are a number of design solutions that can be had that are technically much easier than this project.

When considering a backsplash depending upon budget of course, look at other materials like Porcelain's and standard Ceramic Tiles perhaps of different colors.

First however, one should look at the of difficulty in getting summitry. "How many switches and outlets are there?", "How many stops and starts or corners are there", "Is this going to be back-lit or do you intend to highlight your backsplash", are the other appliances going to influence the location of design elements?, "Do you want to use a diamond, brickstack, haybale, or some other type setting design?" "Do you want to build an "art space" or install a different design above the cooktop, maids desk, or other open space to highlight that?".

The best advice I can give is to plan ahead and have some drawings and materials selected prior to visiting with your contractor or even if you are doing it yourself. I wish the installers could go to the tile shop with the homeowners to develop a plan and select materials to do the job. Far too often I am asked way too late for advice if something the homeowner envisioned appears different.

One way to help is to assemble some photos from magazines. Very often we can match very closely a customers vision with a recent photo cut from a House Beautiful, Southern Living, or something like that. I just wished I had more photos of the finished projects we copied from some of these magazines.

Before & After Bathroom Tear-out

2011-04-21T14:55:00.000-07:00

This first shot is prior to tear out. Click to enlarge. The next shot is after I ripped everything out. The pedestal sink went out but we're not sure if it is going back in and frankly, I hope not. A pedestal sink limits space that normally accommodates a bar of soap, soap dispenser, hand towel, or anything that makes a wash basin a wash basin and not just an old inconvenient relic from days gone by.

In case you haven't figured me out on this one, I have little use for pedestal sinks for several reasons.

Generally on a tear out, I like to remove the tile including the backer board with the tile still attached in one or several large pieces. That didn't happen here. The previous contractor used another cement board product with thin set and the backer board came off with each piece of tile. So, when faced with this you have no choice but to break out the respirator, eye protection and a very big hammer and bash the stuff into tiny pieces. Not what I prefer to do but this was the only process available. All the pieces were scooped up into 5 gallon buckets and hauled downstairs.

Yes, that is the same corner where the toilet sat. The 2x4 push out was to accommodate the incorrect plumbing and you can see the tub is elevated to accommodate plumbing as well. It leaked and destroyed the ceiling below.

Elevated fixtures like tubs and toilets are a very good sign they were added on and the elevation was for water flow.

This last shot is looking at the sub-floor, framing, and plumbing that was going to have to be moved to make this space look right. Since this shot I have removed all of that and all that is left are the floor joists. This was all exposed so the plumber can re-plumb the entire works after the homeowners decide what kind of tub to install there.

It is even very small bathroom remodels like this that can easily roll into the teens of thousands of dollars easily. I am guessing around $12,000 to $15,000 when the hammers fall silent on this one. All the existing plumbing is old cast iron, copper, and brass pipe . Probably good for another 100 years but not in this configuration because it ate up far too much space and just didn't look like it belonged.

The tile was a simple white all around with white grout. Not much imagination went into the original remodel of this bath but that is common with tight budgets. In some ways using builders grade tile on walls and floors has a slight tear-out advantage. Builders grade tile or ceramic is lighter, and breaks up much easier.

Some Bath Remodels Look Like ?

2011-04-16T19:18:00.000-07:00

"Some bath and kitchen remodels look like-crap!" "There, I said it".

"You will not see any photos with this post". I don't want to show them to you because because I really don't have any for this post as I usually do. There is a reason for that. This remodel looks like crap! I will not post any photos of that last adventure into depression and mis-allocation of time, equipment, and materials.

The tile selection was lousy, grout was too. The artwork and paint around the house was a dull collection of dark uninteresting French Renaissance shaded landscapes. It was walled in grays, wood paneling that didn't match, and a hideous faux gray granite wall texture. "YEEEEUCH"

Furthermore, the customers complicated the project with constant bickering about this and that. No one person seemed to be in charge and it appeared any contractor that showed up to work on this estate clearly drew the short straw. From the maid to the pool guy, a demanding full attention to the toil was paramount and any deviation was met with rolling eyes, stares, and a barrage of incomprehensible questions.

I admit that the granite counter top selection was OK, but then it was lost in a menagerie of multi-colored ugly wood paneling that was crafted specifically for another type of surface. This required hours misery trying to fill all the holes left by removal of the old counter top. This was made difficult because we had to try to match 20 year old stain.

The floor tile was a mix of older Fine Polished Travertine Marble with green Marble inlay design elements. That was good. The rest was a a flat and very dull sort of white ceramic with a gray grout.

I really wish I had a very cool and happy remodel outcome to report on but not today. This last week or so has been hell. I've been charging all over the North Dallas area from a Central Dallas high rise condo project to recaulking a shower in McKinney, to repairing a shower wall in Plano, to tiling a kitchen backsplash in Argyle, to Vinyl Tile in 3 baths in Highland Village.

At least it is work. I only wish it were more consistent. This business seems to run in flurries then droughts.

Disaster Bath Tile Job

2011-04-10T09:28:00.000-07:00

The homeowners had not been able to use their toilet in the master bedroom for the last 5 years. We removed the existing tile, busted out the concrete to expose the old cast iron sewer line.I cut through this cast iron line with an angle grinder and a diamond blade.

I then used my camera to reach down and shoot inside the pipe to see why and where it was plugged up. That is a great use for a digital camera with flash. I use it frequently when we cannot actually see into this or that. All you need to do is point and shoot. Look at the results and decide what to do.

Click on photos to enlarge. Below is what we found.

Someone had run a "snake" down the line and broke off the tip. Thus this sewer line was doomed to complete failure until we came along.

How on earth, as tile setters we get involved in stuff like this I just don't know but when we complete a remodel we require everything to work properly. No matter what it takes.

This illustrates some of the frustration and unknown issues that we are up against when remodeling a space. "You have absolutely no idea some of the incredibly wild things we've had to rebuild or repair".

I managed to get hold of the offending pipe cleaner with some long needle nose pliers and work that thing out. You can also see the remains of the tip of a "second snake" sitting upright at the right side inside the coil that had broken off as someone tried to "snake out the broken snake".

We repaired this line, installed new plumbing, a new tub, tub surround, toilet, and floor tile. I have no photos of the completed job. I just wanted out of this one.

A simple 12x12 porcelain tile with a different colored surface cap was used and we installed a design element with a pencil liner around the display. As I said I didn't get any shots of this after completion.

Just another day at the office.

Cozy Corner Shower Photos

2011-04-08T17:25:00.000-07:00

Generally, when we complete a tile job we rarely get a chance to return to the project to take photos after the glass doors are installed, the paint and trim is complete, the lighting is done, and the homeowner's vases, plants, artwork, or candles are lit.

Every once in a while I get a chance to shoot some some nice looking tile projects. This example was installed with 1x1 inch mosaic tiles. Very expensive actually due to the expense of the tile but it turned out well.

The limited space and lens on my camera disallowed a decent full shot of this corner shower.

The mosaic was used exclusively throughout this nice little bath.

In Over Your Head On A Tile Install?

2011-04-05T19:07:00.000-07:00

It happens all the time. "I'd say at least four or five times a year a frustrated homeowner chucks in the towel and calls us to finish their ceramic tile job.

Now, this is not just because they lost their nerve or felt they couldn't do a decent job. Many homeowners simply run out of time. Other reasons are lack of knowledge, tools, design strategy, no planning, or dispute between the Mr. and Mrs.

Lack of time and finding that there can be a lot more to a tile project than just, setting tile. You could be tasked to do some plumbing, electrical, painting, sheetrock, texture, carpentering, painting, moving or removing walls, trim, cabinetry, fixtures, insulation, and a torrent of other extracurricular activities one could not have dreamed of.

Like, "since we installed the new Granite Counter Top, how the hell do I cover up that ugly space between the dishwasher and and the underside of the counter top, and how do I screw it to the the Granite?"

It only makes sense to roll all this over to those that deal with this stuff daily and are familiar with these issues.

It is enough work raising kids and maintaining a household to begin thinking of a major DIY project.

But, I say this, "if you have the time and budget, by all means do it yourself". The reward can be worth the effort. Just do some careful planning.

Good Looking Subway Tile Repair

2011-04-03T20:52:00.000-07:00

Although I think Subway Tile is an "acquired taste", I seem to be doing a lot more of it lately. But, that is kind of the name of the game. "What was old is new and Retro Styling is in vogue here and there". In this shot (click to enlarge) I was tasked with replacing some subway tile that was removed due to a plumbing leak.

Subway tile is fairly easy to install but you do have to pay attention with the the vertical lines to be sure they do not wander.

Fortunately this was a relatively small repair but even these can prove challenging when you are mixing old tile installation with new. The Subway Tile may not be precisely the same size although it was the same manufacturer. Often times we have to nip off the spacing lugs on a few tiles to get them to fit when the sides close in.

In this shot I am grouting. Notice the chipped tile around the valve assembly. This was done so that the escussion plates can be screwed to the base behind the tile. The escussion plates will cover this anyway.

In this shot I have completed the repair. You can see where I have inserted the escussion screws to be sure they will fit after the tile repair is complete.

Forgetting little details like leaving room for the plumber to replace a plumbing part can cause more trouble down the road.

There really is no science and it doesn't take a ton of experience to set Subway Tile. You should plan the job by laying out the tile laterally and vertically to see where the end and middle of the tile should be. You should consider where you may need to place your smaller cuts.

Most subway tile can be set with Mastic or latex adhesive. I use that and Thinset. It works great. Just be sure to use an 1/8th inch notched trowel.

An advantage of using thinset is cleanup. I usually mix it a bit on the thick side so it will not slide down the wall area to be tiled and spread it on. Then set the tile. You can use a margin trowel to simply butter the back of tiles in places where you have trouble getting a trowel into. You can wipe thinset off with a damp sponge and this includes you, your tools, and any other surface it comes in contact with. I come home regularly with the stuff all over my Wrangler Jeans and it always comes out in the wash.

"Ya know", I'll bet these article scrapers and content thieves are a going to have fits trying spin this article.

I don't mind others using my content to enhance their website, as long as it remains coherent and they link to this website. Simple really, copy, paste, and be sure there is a link back to this site.

This site will be changing soon to a different format where I will be able to catalog various articles and posts for easy reach with much more cool stuff. More ideas, how to's, more plans, photos, and more videos. I will have more information and links to the most popular topics as well.

Tile Installation = Exterior Tile Tips

2011-03-28T21:08:00.000-07:00

Whether it is schlepping 4500 LBS of tile, thinset, and other materials into or onto carts moving them in and out of doors, elevators, and passageways, tile is just hard and unforgiving work. You need to remember that.

The reason I say that is because if you get it wrong, it's going to cost more money and someone more work. Before you endeavor to install tile somewhere in or around your home please read up on on some informative sites to learn before you proceed.

My reason for posting this blog is an effort to support the newby or "do it yourself" types to help keep them out of harms way both physically and financially.

Busting out tile is hard, dirty, heavy, dusty, and noisy work. But, sometimes it get's real easy. Like when an ill-advised homeowner from a big box store listened to the sage advice from one of the store cherubs that barely know the difference between a truck and a train tells him or her it is "cool" to use Mastic (latex adhesive) on an outdoor porcelain tile install. "Well, it ain't cool and it is bad advice, I don't give a dam what it says on the side of the can".

In these photos "Mastic or Latex Adhesive" was applied to install the 18 x 18 porcelain tile. Water got under the tile before it had been grouted and released many of the tiles making them loose. You can clearly see the adhesive. Further complicating the adhesion problem, the adhesive had "flashed" or skimmed over before the tile was installed.

Look at the tile in the photo below and you can see there was not much holding this tile down but a little in the corner. The rest of the tile was dry with no real adhesive contact.

This tile on the left was easily lifted off as was several others that I re-installed using thinset. Not just any type of thinset. If you are installing any tile at all use the fortified mix. The one that is NOT the cheapest. You can get a 40 lb bag for $7 or $8 bucks here and there but don't use it unless you have a gallon of liquid latex admix. There are different quality adhesives here too. My advice here is just do not buy the cheap stuff.

Here are some tips for installing exterior tile like on a entry.

1. Do not use Slate, prolonged traffic and exposure to the elements will cause it to slough off
2. Always use "fortified" thinset for exterior tile (white thinset for light color tile/grout and gray for dark)
3. The larger the tile, the larger notch trowel you need
4. Work small sections at a time no more than about 4 square feet if you are a novice
5. Layout and make all your cuts prior to install-number them or place "witness marks" to align them
6. Have everything ready and enough good weather to install it and grout it-if it rains you will need to cover it
7. Clean out any thinset that might ooze up between tiles the depth of your grout line width, at least
8. Always keep a large bucket of water and sponge close to wipe off excess thinset
9. Do not use "SpeedSet" unless you know how to use it, otherwise it is a faster way to total destruction

Use common sense and don't be afraid to ask for advice. Doing things like this successfully yourself can be rewarding and save you money.

We are often called in to complete an incomplete tile project of fix a homeowner flub. It happens all the time. I always give the homeowner "kudos" for the attempt and ask if they want to watch while we work and learn.

Don't be afraid to dive in and install tile. It isn't a special science or secret technique. It is hard work and requires planning.

Common Tile Install Problem

2011-03-13T19:11:00.000-07:00

Doorway Transition Should Center the Closed Door, not the doorway.

There are tile install problems we run into weekly that are unnecessary but common. One of them is in the photo to the right (click to enlarge). When you enlarge the photo you will see a crude arrow I sort of threw in there from Windows Paint Program.

The problem is that the carpet installer, for whatever reason and there could have been a good one, elected not to place the nap-lock in the center directly below the door where it belongs. And we simply aggravated the problem by installing the porcelain tile there but here is why.

In effort to place the tile in the proper transition, where the arrow points to, we would have had to remove the old nap-lock and install it in the proper location. But, there was not enough carpet laying in the right direction to make that possible. So, after consultation with the homeowner we installed the tile as was the previous tile. We had busted out some old white standard ceramic tile to install this porcelain over 1/4 inch Hardie Backer.

Frankly, we dislike doing this. We are promoting poor installations but on the other side of the coin, is the coin. It takes extra money to fix issues such as this. I don't like to leave my name on these installs but sometimes we have no choice.

A proper install should always place the transition between the wood and carpet, or tile and carpet, or tile and wood, or linoleum and carpet and should always be in the center of the door in it's closed position, so that from either closed side, you see only the flooring in that particular room. In the above photo with the door closed you can easily see the tile when the door is closed from outside the bathroom in the hall. That is an "installation boo boo".

Who knows why it happens but it is fairly common. I fix them when I can but sometimes we just have to punt. I don't like it, but if that is what the homeowner agrees to even if it is wrong, we do it.

Removing Shower Tile

2011-03-06T18:12:00.000-08:00

Simple tear out.

In removing shower tile, I prefer to do the above and here's why. Less mess, less dust, fewer plastic bags, and less trouble. As you can see in the photo (click to enlarge) I pulled off entire sections of wallboard including the attached tile. In order to do this one needs to remove all the trim (bull nose or mud cap) around the outside so you can slide a flat pry bar between the two layers of sheetrock.

In order to get manageable sheets you will need to split the sheetrock by removing the center row of tile and cutting it in half. I used a Sawzall. This is possible because of the way your shower is constructed under standard builders procedures and materials.

Greenboard (water resistant wallboard) is placed on the walls in your shower "on top of" the existing sheetrock so you have two layers of sheetrock behind your shower tile. So the idea is to remove the outer layer of sheetrock with the existing tile in one move. Now this depends of course an how far gone your tile and wallboard is.

This is the way your typical 3'x5' shower is constructed, your tub/shower stall is bare sheetrock. A 2"x4" is nailed up to support the wall side of your tub. The tub is installed, then the greenboard is nailed up on top of the top surface of the tub. So, you will likely find a seam between two sheets of sheetrock (greenboard) 4 feet above the top of the tub rim. This is where the greenboard will break on tear out.

Then the tile is installed and grouted. Tile setters can install 4x4 tile and grout these in a few hours. The 4"x4" tile cuts easy, Mastic is the preferred adhesive as it sets quickly and the entire job is done in just a few hours start to finish. Rebuilds however, are an entirely different matter.

Be sure to cover the surface of the tub with cardboard or something to keep any tile from falling and chipping your tub. If you do, there is a special epoxy appliance paint you can find at Home Depot or Lowes that you can use to paint over the chip. The better solution is to cover the tub surface.

You can save several hundred dollars off the next shower rebuild if you do this demo yourself. Anywhere from $300 and up and can easily represent a 10% savings. Remember, before starting any bathroom shower demo, locate the primary water shut off to your home before starting in the unfortunate event you cut or break a water line.

By doing some work on your own you can save a lot of money and learn a bit of the reconstruction process.

Very few builders use Hardie Backer or other concrete surfaced materials so if this is the first time your tile is being replaced the chances are good you can effect a simpler demolition of the shower. For me, simpler is much better. I hope this can help you with your next project.

Breaking Out Floor Tile

2011-02-28T20:51:00.000-08:00

Breaking out tile to replace it can be simple, or very hard. This depends largely upon the material and the installation. A very good installer will make your life a "living hell" when he did a fantastic install when you want to remove it.

Recently I was tasked to remove and replace some bathroom tile on a concrete floor. The tile was a heavy porcelain. I generally use a 28oz hammer to strike the surface of the tile to find weak spots I can break out to get a chipping hammer into. I smacked that floor and the hammer simply bounced off as if to say, "hey stupid, you're going to need a much bigger hammer".

Rarely do I get concerned about my ability to complete a task such as this, but clearly I had some serious work ahead. I broke out the 5 pound sledge, "the bigger hammer". After much sweat and a little blood from flying tile I managed to get a space large enough to insert the 2 inch scaling bit of a Heavy Duty Makita chipping hammer. After a few minutes I had to cover all the surfaces to protect them from the shards of porcelain as pieces imbedded into the sheetrock.

When breaking out tile there are a number of things that will make your life easier. I'll explain some of the subtle differences over a couple posts between different types of tile and what might work best to remove it. You will need tools. Heavy duty tools. You are much better off trying to empty a pool with a 200 gallon per minute pump than a tea cup.

You will need;
1. Hard surface knee pads
2. Hammer
3. Chipping Hammer with a scaling bit -2 inch wide
4. Flat shovel, dust pan or something to scoop up the broken tile
5. Eye Protection, Respirator (these two items often work against each other as your glasses fog up)
6. Gloves
7. A couple 5 gallon buckets to place broken tile and a larger place to dump it

Starting with Marble or Travertine, it is a very soft material. All you need to do is spawl the surface with a hammer. You may need a bigger one. By spawling I mean bash the surface and break it up. Rent a chipping hammer from a rental center and get a two inch wide scaling bit. Begin chipping it away. If you are lucky the adhesion may be dodgy and you will be able to pull it up including the thinset without a lot of trouble. Remember, the thinset is the biggest problem. That is what the scaling bit will do, take down the thinset.

Here are a couple tips for removing stubborn thinset,

1. you can loosen thinset by smacking it with a hammer, it often turns to dust
2. try soaking it with some water if you have the time before trying to scrape it off
3. always use a large-at least 4 inch scraper to scrape the thinset off the floor in the final phase of removal

This is work, no question about it but if you are trying to save money on a tile job I recommend the above. More on the next post for other types of tile.

"Why Your Bathroom Needs More Light"

2011-02-16T19:04:00.000-08:00

Why your bathroom needs more light is because builders use the minimal fixtures necessary to keep you from walking into the vanity. In every single bathroom we've rebuilt in the last few years there has only been a meager handful that had adequate lighting.

There was one in fact, that we had to diffuse in order measure to cut and place tile. It had a Solartube that really did a fantastic job of lighting up the shower during the day. You can install a light inside the Solartube for night if you wish. Pretty awesome and simple device that works. This fixture on the right is from our friends over at CSN Stores.
http://www.csnstores.com/Track-Lighting-C215425.html

It is really great when a homeowner realizes that common deficiency and prepares a new lighting diagram to add new, better, and more lighting fixtures to increase the functionality of the space. Lighting can add warmth and a new perspective and character to the room.

As I said, builders use the minimal fixtures necessary to light up a space and far too many fixtures are limited to the wattage of bulbs or will not use these new florescent bulbs which by the way, couldn't be uglier. They are ugly in appearance, in cleanup due to EPA Regs if you are unfortunate enough to bust one, ugly that the only place you can buy one is from China, and ugly because it is a government mandate!

You know what it is like to walk into a restaurant that incorporates lighting that floods the dining room with mood rendering ambiance. You also may drive by a Diner surrounded by Neon that offers an exciting, interesting, and inviting light environment that say, "come in and have fun and good food!".

I think you get the picture. "Light it up".

Common Extra Costs In A Bathroom Remodel

2011-02-11T21:55:00.000-08:00

Any time one entertains the prospect of remodeling a tired, outdated, worn, and leaky moldy bathroom, you should know that there are a few common issues you might expect and possible costs of repair.

Frequently, when we open up a wall tearing out the old builders "blueboard" that surrounded the wet areas we find damaged studs. These will be rotten beyond structural integrity and must be replaced. Often we find bottom plate stock (2x4 wood) gone as well. Assuming this is all on a concrete slab the damage is contained to the plate stock and studs.

When we are on a wood structure being a pier and beam subfloor, the damage can include the subfloor and beams. When this occurs your initial rebuild can escalate by 25 or 30% but beware, This is an area where unscrupulous contractors can take unaware consumers to the cleaners.

Expect the cost of replacing studs in a wall at $30 to $40 per stud and remember, each corner or T can have 3 studs for each structural member. A 2 corner shower can have 2 corners and 2 T's at a minimum and that will run you $350 at $35 a stud. If you install a frameless glass door you will need a T at each side of the shower to hold the weight of the door. A T has up to 3 studs and a corner has 2. 2x6 wood Backing for a "safety hand hold bar" can run about $25 each. Headers depending upon location can be very expensive.

Replacing beams and subfloor material that is structural can entail far reaching work that can include jacking up the structure to remove and install beams, subfloor, vapor barrier, insulation, and who knows what. Frankly, I really dislike climbing under a damp, close, house to rebuild subfloor structures.

Is it code? Another issue that increases cost is bringing components in the structure that may not be code up to code. This is especially important when permits are pulled for the project. Bringing an older structure up to code that a municipality may require for the contractor to get a green tag can add costs as well.

How to handle added costs.

First, always budget more money and assume the project is going to cost perhaps 15 to 20% more than estimated and this is particularly important in older structures on pier and beam. Talk to your contractor "BEFORE" you sign anything and request a procedure for added costs. Ask for "time and materials" costs prior to tearing out damage and replacing it follow the same procedure for "code" issues. Do not under any circumstances pay for the completed job until the job is complete. Do not allow your contractor to add additional costs for repair or code modification without your approval and my suggestion is you get a signed work order if it is beyond the original estimate.

Photograph everything. With cameras in cell phones there is almost no excuse. Photograph the existing room from many angles and remember where you were to shoot progressive shots as demolition and construction proceeds from the same spot. Photograph damage or be sure the contractor photographs damage before it is repaired or items not up to your local building code. In this photo there was no mounting can or plate for the light fixture. The fixture was simply held on with a couple sheet rock screws. This is a fairly common problem. I installed two light fixture cans and began sheet rock repair in the second photo.

Ask your contractor what he would charge for craftsman or his workers for a day of labor, what the materials would cost, and an estimate of time to make the repairs. For myself and an associate the company charged around $400 a day which was dirt cheap.

It is customary to pay a "first draw" for initial materials, start up labor costs, and demolition. Do not give your contractor an excuse to charge you for additional or "presumed" added costs. If you are having special tile, plumbing, or fixtures installed be sure they are all on site before starting the job. If you hold up the contractor for any reason it can be "presumed" you are denying the contractor additional work he could have been doing that could increase your costs.

The solution to a successful remodel is clear communication,common sense, and reason. Just be sure to get questions answered prior to starting construction.

Tile Cleaning Tips And Contractor Selection

2011-02-05T12:21:00.000-08:00

When I look through the "stats" page regarding this blog I which I do frequently it is for a reason. To see which articles or posts seem to draw the most interest so that I can provide information in that area.

Sometimes I will write an article that I feel is of interest to me because I feel that consumers are unaware of the problems associated with a certain product, service, or application. Basically, being in the service industry and dealing with remodels and cleaning up disasters I see the best and the worst of products and services. That is what I sort of wish to address here.

Buying Tile and Remodel Products.
There is a big buyers club that you see advertised saying you can buy a full kitchen of appliances at wholesale prices or less. Same goes for tile etc. From the customers I have spoken with using these services they say, "It wasn't worth the effort" among a few four letter words. Further, as an installer I've had to deal with them as well for a variety of reasons like picking up the customers Tile, Vanity, or Tub. My advice, don't do it. That's all I have to say. "Yea I know, the TV ads show all the happy customers saving a ton of money and it doesn't surprise me they will not show you the unhappy ones.

How to do it?
Shop. Look around and search. You will be very surprised what you can find if you spend a little time shopping and comparing.

Selecting A Remodel Contractor
First, there are a number of companies like "Service Magic" who swear they have the most competent contractors in the land.

Here's the ugly truth, they have contractors with enough cash to buy their leads. It doesn't much matter if the contractor is really bad, it's who is able to buy their expensive leads. And the money they charge which is very substantial could be saved by you using a different contractor.

How To Find A Reputable Contractor.
Talk to suppliers. These are the guys and gals that sell tile or remodel building supplies and they will know which ones have their tab paid up and the ones on the brink of closing up shop. Ask a potential contractor where they buy their supplies from. Word spreads fast among suppliers because when a contractor burns a supplier, others know soon enough. So, be an insider to find a good solid contractor. And don't let that new truck fool you. Some of the very best tile setters I know have their pride in their work. Not their truck.
The reason I suggest this is because as an installer I listen to scuttlebutt in the back offices and loading docks and you would instantly agree with me if you were there.

Further, a supplier is not going to want to sully their reputation around town by passing out business cards of bad contractors. On the other hand, some suppliers may be reluctant for the same reason. They don't want to get on the bad side of contractors who buy their supplies but you can bet they have their favorites.

Fiberglass And PVC Tubs
"Hate em". Often scratched, chipped, hard to maintain, I wouldn't advise buying one. Yea, they are light, come in more beautiful shapes and colors but, they are delicate, damage easily, and as I said for the preceding reasons, "Hate em". I know the fiberglass industry isn't going to like me very well but I've had enough experience to say you couldn't give me one for free because I know what's on the horizon. Just my opinion. Anything with a porcelain surface is going to serve you longer and be light years easier to maintain.

Cleaning Tile And Grout Lines.
This is by far the most sought after information. There is a lot already in this blog on this topic but I will enhance it shortly as it seems to be very popular. What to use, where and why is always useful. You also get a ton of not so well researched articles about this.

Well, I covered a few areas here that may be of help to someone down the road. Trust me, I report only on information I have gleaned from my own experience in remodel tear outs and installs. Hope this helps someone.

Black Mold (Strachybotrys atra) And Travertine Tile

2011-01-27T14:34:00.000-08:00

(click to enlarge photo)
Travertine Natural Stone Tile is a warm, attractive, and not too expensive surface material used in homes today. But, where you place or use this material deserves attention. I say this because because I see the same result in "showers specifically" that can be a dangerous combination. I would also consider Marble a poor choice in a wet area too for similar reasons. But getting back to the basic problem. Black mold or Strachybotrys.

Travertine Natural Stone Tile is a warm, attractive, and not too expensive surface material used in homes today. But, where you place or use this material deserves attention. I say this because because I see the same result in "showers specifically" that can be a dangerous combination. I would also consider Marble a poor choice in a wet area too for similar reasons. As you can see in this photo mold has permeated the surface in this example in many places. You are seeing just a fraction of what was there.

Traverine is very porous. You can see in the photo the surface of this tile appears smooth but in reality there are fissures that permeate into the surface you cannot see. Even though the surface was sealed, constant water, chlorine, soaps, and detergents will wear through this barrier in a matter of months particularly on the floor of a shower. After a couple years or more materials placed to guard against the invasion of black mold recede and mold begins to grow. It will start out as kind of a rust color and evolve into a greenish and black mold that will appear behind silicone caulk if not dealt with constantly.

In this shot you can see where the caulk has failed and mold is permeating into the corner. When water continues to seep into the seam between the tile and backing material mold really loves to grow in there. Trust me on this one, I've torn out several hundred and I know how that stuff works.

This black mold, Strachybotrys atra is responsible for many, many different types of lung infections and can prove very dangerous or even deadly to some. Fungal lung infections are some of the most difficult to to treat and can prove fatal to infants exposed to this mold. Sometimes that innocent looking bit of off color goop growing in the corner of the shower as in the photo above may appear inconsequential, but you would be wrong. This stuff can cause dizziness, nausea, urinary infections, memory loss, bronchitis and other respiritory
problems. If that isn't bad enough, just wait until it gets bad enough for a mold remediation company to handle the problem if a property inspector catches a wall full of this behind a leaky shower.

This shower was treated with a solution of Clorox and water and allowed to dry. The grout was then either scratched out or surface removed to be regrouted and sealed. It takes several days to get this done. Cleaning and removing the mold, preparing the surface of the grout lines to be resurfaced, regrouting and allowing grout to dry, then sealing and allowing that to dry. So you see, there is a lot to do to a simple shower to make it look and perform as new again. It could have been easier with ceramic, porcelain, or some other surface. You can see in the shot below the completed job. No mold to be seen but it took a lot of work to get it there.

If you are remodeling your shower I would advise you use something other than Travertine or Marble. Granite would be a better choice but there are many types of tile to choose from. On a shower floor I would suggest some kind of mosaic or small one or two inch tile that can form easily to the shower pan so all the water will run toward the drain. I would also use the exhaust fan if you have one to help remove moisture from the room. Most showers are used 4 or more times a day so a lot of moisture is available for mold and bacteria to thrive.

Tips to avoid mold.
1. Run exhaust fan during shower
2. Squeegee water from the sides and areas where water rests on flat surfaces where possible
3. Clean shower weekly with a an anti-mold cleaner-Lysol 4in1 for example
4. Keep corners secure with caulk, most have an anti-mold additive
5. Reduce the amount "stuff" sitting on flat surfaces in your shower that traps water
6. Attack mold at first sight

I know Natural Stone looks terrific, I like it too but, these are things to consider before designing or rebuilding your shower. Travertine and Marble can be used anywhere but should it? If you are up to the maintenance and upkeep challenge of this material, by all means use it. But, know this relationship comes with some baggage!

Here is a good video from our friends at Lowes about this subject. Click here.

Or cut and paste into your browser.
   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfmYTdwV6is&playnext=1&list=PL264A4850CB7B7F27

Tile Not Good For Showers/Next Post

2011-01-25T21:05:00.000-08:00

Although we will install whatever your heart desires in your shower, there are just some materials that do not belong there.

Unless of course, you have a staff to clean and dry these materials after every use, I wouldn't advise using them in a wet area except for a design element that doesn't get wet.

My next post I'll expand on that and why it could actually effect your health.

Tips On Used Adhesive and Grout

2011-01-20T12:49:00.000-08:00

(click to enlarge photo)
Very often we install a tile floor and simply leave the remaining installation products on site. We do this so that the homeowner will have a sample of the grout color in the event a repair is needed. One of the common given reasons is so the repair will include the same "dye lot" series so that the grout will match. That's bunk really.

After a year or so your grout will undergo aging and suffer the effects of dirt, water, and detergents on floor tile grout with the exception of back-splashes perhaps. Your shower will be accosted with chlorine everyday which is in fact a bleach that can dull the sharp color that once existed. These changes are not monumental but enough to debunk "correct dye lot" thing.

As far as adhesive goes, that stuff starts getting grainy after a short period of time after opening, so unless you are an installer or know someone who could use it soon, throw it away unless you can find another use for it. As for "mastic" or liquid adhesives for tile it's a crap shoot. It may or may not be any good after a while. It depends on how much was used and how well the container was sealed. Freezing temps can destroy mastic too. Of you open it up and it smells like rotten eggs, it's junk.

My experience having performed many tile repairs has been the new grout will always look a shade different from the original. My advise is to keep a receipt or cut the bottom of the grout bag out with the type and color on it and file that away somewhere. The only time you will have an issue with grout color is when switching brands of grout color.

"Custom's" which is distributed by Home Depot and many other professional service companies has similar named grout colors but are vastly different in actual color. Do not change grout manufacturers even if the color name is the same on the box. Mappi makes grout and other products that are distributed through Lowes but their grout colors, even though named the same, are NOT the same color.

(click to enlarge photo)
It may be convenient that there is usually a Lowes down the street from Home Depot but if you run out of Bone grout for your project and find Home Depot out of the color you need to complete the job, don't buy the Mappi Bone grout at Lowes. It is not the same color. Do not use it on a repair. If you don't know what color was used we can generally match it closely with a color chart but it will not appear as it did new.

I think it to be a professional courtesy for previous homeowners to leave tile materials for the new homeowners for repairs. The problem for us is that we tend to wind up with so many partial bags of various colors and manufacturers we wind up throwing it all away. It's garbage once exposed to some moisture anyway.

If you had some tile installation going on do this, save the partial grout bag of grout in a plastic freezer type bag. Write down the date, color, manufacturer, and whether or not it is sanded or non-sanded. If you have an empty bag, cut out the bottom and save it so you will have all pertinent data on the grout such as the photo example at the top of this page. We keep a file with every appliance purchase and other "might need" info in a filing cabinet and I can't tell you how many times I've referred to those files for model numbers for parts and so on.

Just my experience.

Tips On Selecting Tile

2011-01-11T16:07:00.000-08:00

Folks have a general idea as the color or shade of tile they wish to install on their respective floor. Here are some tips to help in the selection process.

Aesthetics regarding the style or flavor of your homes interior design. "Do you have a Southwest flavor, Modern, Colonial, Ranch, French, European?"

Do you want an old world or natural floor material, or are you more interested in a clean and glassy look?

One thing to consider first is the scope of the floor tile job. That is, are you removing wall paper, base, trim, cabinets, mirrors, and basically stripping out the space like this photo on the right?

Starting with clean slate welcomes an opportunity to add new materials, colors and textures and to personalize the space. In determining the scope answers the budget issue in a big way. Although the outfit I have been associated with has "in house" people to perform virtually all phases of construction the dollars can really add up when faced with major plumbing and electrical work.

The aesthetics issue tends to be a budget issue but that does not mean you can't really spiff up a space with the proper tile selection and placement. In a small space stay away from large tiles. A small space can allow you to go to a higher priced material and add some mosaics, borders, or other materials. Think about paint, trim colors, wood, textures and fixtures.

Take your time and shop around for floor tile materials. Big box stores that deal specifically with flooring frequently have sales and closeouts and there is almost information overload at times. But, leave the checkbook and credit cards at home and shop-for ideas. Look at displays and pick up different tiles to see how they would work together with mosaics or natural stone.

Think about the layout of tile. Would a standard flat square layout work OK, or a layout on a bias, subway, or brick stack? There are a number of small things that can be done inexpensively to add some style and flavor to the floor space. Now, adding mosaics and bias layouts generally cost a bit more for an install like going to natural stone but in a small space it isn't that much more.

When you have decided what you want grab some pieces and set them about the room next to walls and lay them out in different areas to see how they look in typical lighting day and night. Light in a showroom or warehouse is going to be different than in your bathroom, kitchen, or dining room. You might be surprised at differences in color or textures look in different light.

Tile Adhesives, What To USe and Where

2011-01-05T15:43:00.000-08:00

What

I am fairly confident that the amount of thinset or adhesive we use over the course of a year could be measured by the ton. I've mixed it by hand with a margin trowel, with mixer paddles on a drill, and mastic straight out of the can.

Here are some pointers and tips for that next tile project.
1. There are two basic colors of thinset, White and Gray. Use the white thinset on white or lighter colored tile and Gray thinset on darker thinset. This is especially important when you use white grout. White grout, use the white thinset. For some reason white thinset will cost a few bucks more but it's worth it. When you have White Marble use white thinset because it may even be possible to see the gray thinset through the edges and fissures of the Marble tile. Treat Travertine the same way.

2. On regular 4x4 or even 6x6 standard builders ceramic tile you can use mastic with no problem.

3. Heavier tile generally needs thinset.

Often when setting tile thinset can and will exude up between the tiles in what will soon be grout lines. It is much easier to clean these now than wait until it hardens. I sometimes use a spacer and sponge to clean the lines. Find something the width of the grout lines to remove the excessive thinset or whatever the adhesive may be and clean it with a damp sponge. It really is a pain when you miss some thinset and it appears when you are grouting.

When using 12x12 tile use at least a 1x4 inch deep trowel. As the tile gets larger, so too should the trowel teeth. If you are setting 18x18 or 24x24 you need a 1/2 inch trowel. This is important particularly on concrete floors. When applying mosaic that consists of 1x2 inch mosaic on 12x12 sheets that you would use on a shower floor for example, you would want to drop down to an 1/8 inch notch trowel those that look like a saw blade.

When installing kitchen backsplash we almost exclusively use mastic. One reason is it sets much faster than thinset and we can get the grout job done the same day usually.

Fortunately, all adhesives that I am aware of easily come off with water. If you missed some thinset oozing up between the tiles, the next day use a razor knife, flat screwdriver or something to remove it. The time to do this is not when you are trying to grout. Also, remember to pull all of the spacers.

The shower we did above is an excellent example of elegant simplicity. Rather than a niche box the customer selected a simple corner shelf. They asked for a simple contrasting mosaic band we installed just above eye level to break up the tall shower wall. What you cannot see is 2x6 fastened into the wall at the points where the hand rail attaches to inside the wall for additional strength.

Tips On Ceramic Tile Floor Tear Out

2011-01-03T17:08:00.000-08:00

Every tile floor demolition is different. A short time ago I busted out a 245 square foot bath floor in a bout 30 minutes. I spent more time carrying out the refuse than actually breaking out the tile. This was ceramic and it wasn't installed too well. It appeared the thinset had skimmed over before the tile was installed so it popped of fairly easily. Not so on others.
Click on photo to enlarge. In this photo, we have removed all the tile in the kitchen, dining, and utility room but most of the thinset remains to be scraped and in this case chiseled up with electric jack hammers like the Hiltie in the previous post below this one.

Before you endeavor to tear out some tile flooring I have some tips that will make life a little easier especially if you haven't done this before.

Tools: (all the safety gear you need will run under $40 each)

1. Knee pads, not just any knee pads, get the ones with a hard plastic surface. Porcelain will punch right through soft surface knee pads. You can find a pair for about $10 at Home Depot. Shards of Porcelain, Ceramic, or even Natural Stone can shred these fabric and cheap foam pads. You do not want to wear these hard surface knee pads when installing Marble or Travertine. They will scratch and damage the surface. Installation is when you can wear the soft surface pads. I own about 3 different pair of pads for that reason. Hard plastic for tear out and soft surface pads for install.
2. Gloves some heavy leather gloves. Don't do the plastic or cloth as tile will punch or cut through them. Uh, actually, tile shards will even cut through leather come to think of it if you aren't careful. So, be careful how you handle broken tile.
3. Eye protection
4. Respirator, optional but a good idea
5. Ear plugs if you are using an electric chisel or hammer drill like a Hiltie
6. Several 5 gallon buckets for refuse and I suggest you get a plan on how and where you plan to dump the refuse. Remember, you only want to move this stuff once or twice at the most.
7. Hammer and chisel, this is to chip out material "very carefully" that is close to a porcelain tub for example.

8. Heavy duty dust pan or flat shovel

9. Scraper, at least 4 inch wide and you can find a decent one with extra blades in the handle for about $16 at HD

Now, in getting ready to remove tile there some things to consider. Are the cabinets or doors going to be refinished? If they aren't you may want to protect these surfaces with cardboard or an old blanket because shards will fly when you begin to aggressively to break out the tile. I have seen ceramic shards embedded in the sheet rock and my own Wrangler jeans. Sheet rock will not bleed but from personal experience, Wrangler jeans do for some odd reason.

If you are in a bathroom, we generally pull the toilet and set it in the tub on plastic or some other protective material. Stuff a wad of newspaper in the toilet drain hole to keep sewer gasses from escaping into the work area for obvious reasons. We pull the doors and get them out of the way.

Consider what the tile you are preparing to remove is attached or butts up to. If it butts up to carpet and you are just replacing the tile, it may be a tucked edge. You need not do anything but install the tile right up to the existing carpet which hopefully will be in the middle or the door in the closed position. If it butts up to wood flooring or another tile surface you will want to be careful not to damage the edge. If there is carpet tack strip that needs to be removed pull it and just remember to install new tack strip before installing your new tile.

What about the base? Here's the 411 on base. If you remove it, plan to install new stuff. Rarely do we ever get all the base up without busting some up. Further, many of these meat head "finish carpenters", if that is what they call themselves, drive so many brads and nails into the base they will only come off in pieces. The better rout is to tile up to the wall and run new base on top of the tile anyway. I generally paint the base before installing it so all that is left is a bit of touch up paint at the corners and fastener holes after setting the finish nails..

When I start breaking tile I generally start in farthest corner and begin bashing it with a 28ounce smooth framing hammer or a 5 pound sledge with a short handle. This is to find out the thickness, tile type, and how tough this job is going to be. If it is porcelain it is very hard tile. If it is attached well to the concrete or backer the hammer will almost bounce off the stuff. This is when you will need a Hiltie or another electric Hammer with a spade bit (at least 2 inches wide) to begin breaking up the tile.

Ceramic comes up and breaks up easily. Marble is easy, Granite can be difficult but by far Porcelain Tile is the most difficult if attached well. It is extremely hard and the edges are unbelievably sharp. When breaking up tile and you have some tiles that are almost full pieces, break them up into very small pieces with the hammer. Smaller pieces are more convenient, easier to handle and you can get a bit more in your buckets. I suggest only filling them 1/2 or at most 3/4 full. These will be as heavy as concrete so don't strain yourself.

In the photo above, you can see that we broke up and removed the tile but the thinset remains. This can be another entire issue and why you will want a wide spade bit for your electric hammer. You will have to break this all up inch by inch and you will need a respirator and you will need a "dust plan". "Yep", I said "PLAN". Are you going to clean the entire house after you get done with this? Is there a window where you can blow the dust out continuously with a box fan? Are you going to lay plastic to cover everything or seal off the rest of the house from this area?

Another tip on removing grout, try wetting the grout with a sponge and bucket of water. Generally this will soften the thinset and make it easier to scrape off with a blade scraper. When using a bladed scraper, flip the scraper over from time to time when scraping. This practice exposes the newly sharpened edges.

After you have removed all the tile and scraped the floor smooth with the bladed scraper, get out a big sponge and some warm water and wash the entire floor. You want to remove all the dust from the floor. Just like you dust a baking pan with flour to keep the cake mix from sticking to the pan so too will dust keep your tile from sticking to the floor well when you thinset it down.

Well, that's about it. No two ways about busting out tile, it's simply hard work. But, if you use a little of this advice perhaps your job will go a bit easier and safer.

You can do it!

Breaking Out Floor Tile Tools

2010-12-22T21:13:00.000-08:00

When it comes to breaking out old tile flooring or busting out concrete to move a shower or drain line, it's really hard to beat a good ole Hilti electric hammer drill. These things are perfect for minor tear outs and I usually rent one for about $40.00 for the few hours I generally need it. "Ah, but I could buy a "Chicago Tool" Hammer Drill brand new at Harbor Freight for about the same money! Yea, but they take twice as long and they can't take most of the abuse we impose on them. They're OK for small stuff but not major work like in this photo.

Here, I was tasked with removing the old 12x12 tile and this hammer did the job in a hurry. Then it went to work breaking a drain line out of a concrete beam. As a "do it your selfer", you are better off using "more tool" to do the job. It would be nice to own some of these specialized tools but it really isn't necessary as far as I am concerned.

When you get ready to remove some existing tile for new flooring, here is a list of tools that the pros use.
1, Hilti, rent from Home Depot or other, about $40 for a 1/2 day with a spade bit as in photo
2. Knee pads with hard surfaces
3. Eye protection and respirator (often these don't work well together as the respirator fogs up the eye protection)
4. Ear plugs
5. Flat shovel
6. Buckets 2 or 3- 5 gallon to haul off broken tile
7. Floor scraper, get a large one, these have a replaceable blade to remove thinset
8. Hammer to bust up larger pieces of tile
9. Broom and dust pan
10. Good leather gloves
11, Shop vac-these are great to pick up all the fine dust left on the floor, you will want to damp mop or clean the floor before installing new tile

Caution about breaking out tile. You will not have much trouble with natural stone. Ceramic is not much of a challenge. But, porcelain is another animal and you should be careful with breaking out this material. You will know it when you start to break it out. It is basically a crude and very hard glass. It is extremely sharp and will cut through your leather gloves like a hot knife through butter if you get careless handling the broken shards. So, use a dust pan or flat shovel or some tool to move as much porcelain shards as you can. Porcelain and other tile is also very heavy so you will need a plan as to what you are going to place the refuse.

Personally, I hate moving trash more than once. So, it would really be beneficial to have a trash trailer or pickup bed you can dump the broken tile into. Otherwise you will need a box or two of heavy duty plastic bags to dump the refuse into and they get cut to shreds. There can easily be several hundred pounds of tile material in the average bathroom floor after you consider the tile, thinset, and grout.

Removing tile yourself can save you a pile of money and you don't have to be an expert to do it. It's basically hard work and you can do it.

Long Term Leaking Shower Damage

2010-12-12T20:35:00.000-08:00

First, I must apologize for the photos as they do not enlarge and the quality is not up to my standards. I decided to shoot these with my camera phone as an experiment. " I don't think I'll do that again".

A shower that leaks or condenses moisture inside the walls will ultimately destroy everything around it and attract wood eating critters. In these photos we were charged with removing the shower pan which was made of lead, remove about 3 rows of tile and replace the shower pan and tile. What you see in these photos is what required a complete tear out and rebuild.

I was unable to find good timber 3 tiles up and the decision was made to completely tear out and rebuild the shower. You can see the 2x4 had completely rotted away and was eating up the drywall going into the next bedroom. Upon removing tile from the curb you can clearly see water penetration into the sub-floor next to my cordless drill. This hole in the floor the homeowner had covered with a plate of metal but the entire floor under the shower pan had to be rebuilt. It was about to fail and fall through.

Here is a view from the bedroom on the other side of the shower looking into the shower from the damaged sheet rock. As I had mentioned in a previous post, anytime you begin a shower tear out you need to carefully consider what is on the other side of the wall you intend to work on. Naturally this one had a faux paint job but the homeowner said she had the time and materials to fix it up.

Below is the wall after I had replaced the sheet rock, bedded and textured it. I also had to paint and replace the base seen here as about 3 foot of it along the shower wall was rotten. Only the paint was holding up. This base had a special profile not made anymore so I had to find a suitable acceptable replacement.

After replacing mud sills, floor joists, studs, and rebuilding the sub-floor I installed the shower pan, new R-19 insulation and Hardie Backer. The corners and joints were waterproofed and 6x6 tile was installed with a niche, a towel bar and a simple little design element band around the top.

This project entailed almost everything that we are tasked to do in a major repair. This shower had lasted about 40 years due in part to it's robust construction. In the photos below you can clearly see the "Old School" construction that made tear out of this project a Mammoth endeavor. In the photo of the tile you can see a remnant of the screed board that was installed then removed to place a solid wall of concrete to attach the tile. In the other photo I have a tape there to show you how thick this wall was. We don't build them like
that anymore.

How To Make Your Shower Tile Last Longer

2010-11-26T10:23:00.000-08:00

I am frequently asked "what do we need to do to clean and maintain our newly rebuilt shower?". This all depends upon the tile. If you have Natural Stone like Marble, Travertine, or Granite, you will treat it a bit differently than say Ceramic or Porcelain.

One aspect of both man made and Natural Stone, remain the same, and that is in the grout.

In this example, the grout has worn and mold is now ensconced behind the caulking and the only solution is to remove and replace it all. Below is the finished product although the tub needs to be buffed. Click to enlarge photos.

In these examples the caulk has clearly failed as well as the grout.

What I did here is removed all the caulk and grout in the areas where there is the most water contact then re-grouted with non-sanded white grout, allowed it 24 hrs to dry then caulked with a white silicone bathroom type caulk. Then, after a good cleaning I sealed the entire shower with two coats of grout and tile sealer.

Sealer acts kind of like Rainex and rejects water penetration. This and the silicone caulk also add an anti mold aspect of the procedure but it is not permanent. This is a stop gap measure. The next time will probably require a rebuild because the tub surface is beginning to fail and will be replaced. Refinishing is possible but again it is a stop gap measure.

Here is how to make your shower last longer.

1. Clean regularly with mild detergents and a sponge with a scrubber side to keep the soap scum from building up at least once a week and more if possible. Many common household cleaners are OK on ceramic or porcelain but not on Natural Stone. Do not use vinegar on Natural Stone. A small steam cleaner for that is probably a better idea. Vinegar is acidic and can eat away at the grout similar to some of these citrus cleaners.

2. Keep corners caulked with a good silicone caulk. The better ones require paint thinner or mineral spirits as a solvent. This material is a bit rubbery after application and works well in big temperature changes like the shower. Caulk any small portions where the grout may have fallen out to keep water from penetrating behind the tile.

3. Seal it at least once a year. Go in and clean the tile to remove all the soap scum off, then seal the whole thing. You will apply it to all the tile and grout paying attention to the corners where mold likes to generate.

If you do this your shower will last longer. I have rebuilt showers in tract homes where the showers were built in the same year. One master shower really needs work and the other across the street is still quite functional. There is a reason why. Maintenance.

If you do not want to maintain your shower that's OK too. We would be happy to rebuild your tub shower. It will cost about $1200 plus just to remove and replace the existing tile. Then you need to consider replacing the tub, fixtures, enclosure, any damaged studs, plumbing, and associated wall board. paint and trim. About 45% of the time we find ants or termites after tear out so you may lose a day of lost work because of a chemical application if needed. Next, there is tile choice, replacement cost and installation that can very easily run the price up to $5,000 or more.

When you think about maintaining your shower, ask yourself this question, "what showers get the most use and how do they maintain them?" "Answer, Hotels and Motels". Arguably the most used and abused showers ever, commercial applications are where the rubber meets the road when it comes to making the dollar and facilities last. That is another reason why they have housekeeping clean their showers daily.

I am not suggesting you clean your shower daily, but ask yourself this, when was the last time I cleaned the tub and shower? I know it has been at least a week since I did mine.

Best Curved Shower Rod, So Far

2010-11-11T09:42:00.000-08:00

The Best Curved Shower Rod I've installed was a dual rod and the price reflected that. But, in the last couple months I've installed 2 curved shower rods. One was purchased by a homeowner on sale for $10 bucks and the other cost about $50.00. The $50.00 was considerably better. "I wonder why?"

The $10 rod didn't fit. A standard tub/shower is right at 5 foot or 60 inches. The width of this shower was 58 inches. I always assemble whatever I am installing and test fit prior to drilling soon to be expensive holes in someones shower tile. So, the "expensive holes" could be at my expense by not performing this simple test fit first.

Since the rod was too long the homeowner cut it down a couple inches and I made it work. But, the entire contraption is a little weak. The mounts consisted of two mounting screws each which is good but the attachment points to the rod were barely adequate. A heavy shower curtain could make the thing droop a bit.

The message of this post is this, don't buy the least expensive rod unless you feel there will be little little use of the shower. You don't have to buy the most expensive either. But remember, a couple holes will be drilled in your precious tile to mount these suckers and my advice is get a better quality rod so you don't have to replace it and then worry about the existing holes.

Now, I'm a tile guy, but when I find cool accessories, tools, materials, new products, ideas, and stuff that I have first hand experience with that works great, I'll promote that. The above photo I stole from Amazon and if you go to that link you can read reviews about this curved shower rod. I've installed a couple of these and the mounts included with this kit are solid.

There are better, and much worse. But this is a middle of the road curved shower curtain rod that works well in form and function. I have unashamedly placed a link on the right to this unit and I suggest you read the 19 reviews for yourself if you are in the market for a new curved shower rod.

Sealing Tile, An Experience

2010-11-01T22:06:00.000-07:00

Sealing tile is very important. Recently I was tasked with cleaning a kitchen and dining area of Mexican Saltillio Terra Cotta Tile. The problem, it had been down for about six months with cooking and traffic.

Donning knee pads, detergent, and a bucket I began to scrub by hand. I scrubbed and scrubbed and scraped up paint and unknown surface materials. I then rinsed the floor and left. But, I had to really scrub the heck out of that thing to get black shoe marks and other obvious marks up. When I left the floor was still damp. Unable to see anything that may have been left.

The next day as I was in transit to seal the floor, I called the customer to tell them I was on the way. Now, since it still damp when I left the previous day there was no way I could tell if I got everything up. And I hadn't. Right in front of the cooking range there was still oil and grease spots on the tile and in the grout.

After some clear insults about my work I Informed the customer that if it wasn't up to their standards I would keep working until it was, and I did. I cleaned and rinsed the entire floor again placing a lot more attention to the tile in front of the stove again. To remove oil and grease from terra cotta you need something like Simple Green, lots of water, and some white kitchen scrub pads with large commercial sponges.

After the floor had a chance to dry I began to seal the floor. The directions state to place a coat on the tile, wait 30 minutes then another coat, test the tile for water absorption, and add a third coat after 2 hours.

Now, the customer said, just install 3 coats which I did. Understand this, I do every job as if the customer had a hidden camera on me or our crews at all times. Now when you install sealer, the first coat is absorbed really quick with Mexican Saltillo Terra Cotta Tile. The second coat goes on smoothly but the flooring stays wetter and you find yourself wiping the tile dry a lot more. By the time you get to the third coat the tile cannot hold anymore sealer, the tile is sealed, and a sponge full of sealer will last and last.

The one gallon container says it will cover 300 square feet. This kitchen and dining was about 150. The customer was curious that there was sealer left. In my opinion, I think they suspected I only installed one or two coats. I explained that as the tile gets full of sealer it will only hold so much sealer, period. It will not take any more. And that's the truth! It's kind of like trying to eat another burger, fries, and chocolate shake after you are stuffed full from eating two previous orders. You just don't want it and neither does the tile.

The time to seal that tile was before the tile was grouted. Yes, I said before the tile was grouted. That is how we install Terra Cotta or Slate, we set the tile, seal the tile, then grout it. Since Saltillo tile is very absorbent and slate is very rough and craggy, we seal it before we grout it so it does not stick in the cracks or get absorbed into the surface of the Mexican Saltillo.

Sometimes no matter how hard we work we just can't win.

Shower Curtains For Elegance and Function

2010-10-24T18:07:00.000-07:00

There are a lot of factors homeowners must take into consideration when remodeling their bath or shower. Lately, it seems form follows function and budget. If your budget allows for a needed tile rebuild but not the fancy Natural Stone, Glass Mosaics and Niches then there are still things you can do to improve your shower or tub shower combo.

We all would like the latest frameless glass enclosure but they can run a couple grand faster than you can get your credit card out. And Christmas is just around the corner. What I have been installing lately is a good indicator of current trends and that is curved shower curtains. Or, rods to be exact.

A lot of the tile remodels we do are simply a rebuild and the homeowner is not really interested in displaying our work as a secluded piece of art that not everyone sees. You know, the cool Niches, Colorful Mosaics, Tumbled Travertine, Granite, Glass, or molded Inserts that outline or picture frame an elegant looking niche with a contrasting shelf material. Nope, a lot of our stuff is just the meat and potatoes to restore a leaky shower enclosure or one where there is more mold than grout left between the tiles. No need or want for upgraded shower enclosure, just a curved curtain rod.

Curved curtain

Now, speaking of shower rods,we have installed curved shower curtains in some very upscale installs for these reasons, they are functional, they are elegant, you can make or buy material for a curtain that flows or compliments your design picture, and they work. By "work" I mean they offer much more room than the straight curtain rod and the interior liner seems to lose interest in attaching itself to you as you try to shower.

The upside, these are relatively inexpensive, they look marvelous, they offer more room, are less likely to leak, you can add your own design flavor to the curtain and you can chuck the liner in the washer when it gets a bit cruddy.

The downside (and some solutions), installation can be a pain but that depends largely on the shower configuration and tile material. If you have regular builders white 4x4 tile in a standard 3 ft. x 5 ft. tub shower combo, mark where you need to drill into the tile from the mounting brackets. Use an awl or Philips head screwdriver to chip a small divet in the tile where your mark is. This is so your bit will have a place to start. If you don't do this first your bit will wander all over the tile, no kidding. In regular ceramic tile sacrifice a 1/4 inch wood bit and it will work OK.

If you have Porcelain, Marble, or Granite, find out from the installation kit the size bit you need for the installation screws. Go to the Hardware Store and get a round tile bit kit that has a round carbide tip. The "kit" I am talking about has a round bit and a clear plastic container that is used to contain water that keeps the bit cool while drilling. When you get home throw the instructions and the little plastic water container in the trash and get a spray bottle like a Windex spray bottle. Do as instructed above and start drilling while spraying the bit continuously to keep it cool. Place an old towel on the floor or below your drilling point to capture the drilling mud.

Hopefully there is s stud behind the tile. If not, you will need to install a plastic screw spacer in the hole that expands securing the screw and mounting bracket. These things aren't holding much weight but if you go for a double rod there will be a bit more torque on the mount but not that much. The rods are fairly light. Even the brushed stainless. Remember to insert both halves together before installing the rod into a mounting bracket and and a mounting pin. Then swing the other side into place and install the pin. There should be a small octagon wrench that is used to tighten the pins and you are done.

Suggestions, although I have installed about 6 of these over the last 6 months or so by myself, it would be a bit faster and easier with some help. Use a corded drill so you don't run out of power if you have one. Keep the bit cool with water from the spray bottle. Use the roller curtain hooks for the curtains, they seem to work better on curved rods. The single curtain rods seem to work just as well as the double and are easier to install.

If you are thinking of making a change in your shower enclosure read what others have to say in the customer reviews at Amazon.com. You don't need to buy from them but you can learn a lot about the product from the customer reviews. Read those and you will learn some more of what I've been writing here.

Tile Shower Walls and Frameless Glass

2010-10-16T10:27:00.000-07:00

This new evolution of frameless glass in showers and shower enclosures goes with unnoticed and unseen construction tecniques.

When we are aware that a customer wishes to install a frameless glass enclosure we begin planning for that in the tear out phase. What we do (and I can't speak for all tile installers) is double and triple stud walls in the area we expect the frameless glass attach points to be. We will also take extra care in the selection of the studs for straightness and be sure that the installed studs are plumb.

That being said there are times when time, materials, and budget do not allow for the extra tear out that would allow us to straighten out a curvy or not too plumb wall. This seems to be more frequent in bathrooms with very tall walls that are over ten feet tall. When we are in the tear out phase there are a number of things to consider like the finish on the other side of the shower wall that could easily be your bedroom, kitchen, another bedroom or even a living room. When we remove old damaged studs or even reinforce walls there is always risk of inadvertent damage to the outside wall.

Nail pops are the most common type of damage like the above photo. This is when a sheetrock nail head sheds its' covering of mud and paint leaving an ugly little round hole in your wall or many. This is a simple fix if you have a partial can of that wall paint and some patch mud. But, this can get real interesting when we are looking at one of these custom faux paint schemes that are done by the local high dollar interior "paint artist".

Homeowners should be aware that any time there is any type of reconstruction that requires any kind of tear out there is always unintended damage that can arise when re-framing support walls for frameless glass. There is also a cost-benefit analysis of sorts when it comes to making a wall perfectly flat and plumb. When you look at replacing say 10 studs that allow a slight almost unseen bow in your wall to the cost of replacement (10 studs x $40.00 each plus fasteners and trip to hardware store or about $500.00) you have to wonder if it is worth it.

When rebuilding a shower and frameless glass is in the design, be sure that you and the contractor check the existing walls for plumb and straightness to avoid any issues there. Using a 4 foot level or better yet a 6 foot will give a hint to the straightness of a wall. Solving these issues pre-tear out will help your job go more smoothly.

Advantages of Frameless Glass

2010-10-07T10:41:00.000-07:00

A new trend has been picking up pace as of late. Frameless glass in tiled shower surrounds. The advantages are a clean design, functionality, and increased value.

Disadvantages are initial cost, time to install, expense of damage or incorrect maintenance.

The way frameless glass is incorporated into your new tiled shower project goes like this. The tile contractor completes the tile job. That same day your glass guy takes precise measurements. He takes measurements back to the shop and cuts the glass. The glass is then shipped to a production facility where the glass is heat treated to "safety" standards. Safety standards mean that if you smack it exactly wrong it will shatter into a million little tiny pieces instead of a bunch of big shards. It can be very easy to break this glass or it can bee very hard depending upon how it is struck.

You will have a silicone joint between the tile and the glass of course where you would normally have an aluminum frame except on the vertical surfaces. On vertical surfaces generally there will be a small space if water penetration is not an issue. The glass inside framed enclosures is tough too but it is held in place with rubber gasket material. This is a place where mold likes to grow.

The cost of frameless glass is not for the budget minded. As an example, I went to Home Depot many years ago and purchased an aluminum sliding door for the master tub enclosure. Basically two sheets of glass and a frame I installed myself with a tube of clear GE silicone and a hacksaw. Cost was about $190.00 for everything not counting my time. If I had gone with frameless in today's market I would be looking at about $1250.00 more or less.

Now, the stuff I purchased was "off the shelf", a custom shower enclosure however with a frame will run about 1/2 that of a frameless. Custom meaning you have an unusual shower shape with short and long cuts in glass and frame. In your design phase for a new shower enclosure look at the possibility of minimizing glass exposure to reduce the cost and maintenance of glass. Glass offers and open clean design and you have to decide where you want the added expense.

Errors In Tile Design

2010-10-03T16:41:00.000-07:00

Click on the photo to enlarge and see it you can figure out what is going on.

I'll tell you. This was a complete remodel with Marble counter tops, window stool, and shower threshold. If you look at the window it appears the tile job is unfinished and always will. The frame-less glass will be sitting on the Marble coming from the wall to about even with the edge of the tub. Then it will turn left toward the shower wall to the left out of view. As far as I am concerned this was a design mistake. Why?, because it looks unfinished even when finished.

The tile is a backsplash around the tub and flows about even with the counter top backsplash. You can see the tile wrap the window edges but on the left side of the window it looks incomplete. It is finished as specified but in my view the tile should have went to the edge of the window instead of leaving a vacant space.

We deal with little details like these almost daily and the hardest part sometimes is trying to get the homeowner to visualize what we "tile setters" would envision as an error in design. To many it isn't a problem. Often we aren't encouraged by time and attitudes to bring forth possible design conflicts and it really is subjective when you think about it. This tile job turned out really well with a gorgeous black and white mosaic on the shower floor, 6x6 on the walls and 12x12 on the floor and a black and white Marble for tops.

The only issue is that looming space on the left side of the window which appears out of balance.

Resealing Your Bathroom Tile

2010-09-30T21:06:00.000-07:00

Well, you wax your car from time to time don't you? Tile in showers are deluged with chemical cocktails often several times daily and will chew through a tile sealer and I don't care what it says on the side of the can. If the water beads up you're good to go. If it does not?

That is the question, when to reseal the shower. My advice, do it once a year just to be sure. Kind of like changing the batteries in Smoke Alarms that you change each year, Right? "You don't?", you don't change the Smoke Alarm batteries each year?.

Then you are like most of us who await that irritating chime that say's the batteries are almost dead, so I'm going to irritate you until you DO! I hate those things. In any case most tile sealers or grout sealers have a 5 year or longer warranty but against what? and who is going to complain? Nobody even thinks about sealer but I do. It's kind of like the paint on your car, lose the paint and you begin to see rust. With tile. lose the sealer, more water invades the grout and here comes the mold.

When you think of sealer, think of the wax and paint that protects the sheet metal on your car. Replace rust with mold and there you go. Most sealers that I have used don't say a damned thing about re-sealing the grout or tile. Just the initial placement seems to be the only matter. My advice is do it once a year until someone offers up a tangible reason as to why not!

Resealing tile is easy, doesn't take much material, doesn't take much time, and has lasting positive effects from what I've seen. First thing to do is get the tile spotless clean and dry. Then apply sealer with a sponge whose sole purpose in life is this one job. After getting sealer all over it, the sponge get's anti-spongy or kind of useless after that. Anyway, wipe the sealer on, dry it off with paper towels and repeat after about 30 minutes. Don't use the shower for 24 hrs and that's it. Use rubber gloves.

I often use those cheap foam paint brushes for this job and a box or roll of paper towels and a trash bag. Oh, and knee pads, can't live without those anymore. You just need to be sure during this process, that you are aware of natural wood finishes or other flooring so you do not track sealer through another room. If you do, get a terry cloth towel and buff and buff until it comes clean. Don't try to use another chemical to remove the sealer. It's best to wipe it up and buff it off quickly. Anything you use to remove the sealer can remove the wood stain or finish. So use the time tested mechanical method. Elbow grease and a clean terry cloth towel.
Better yet, cover any surfaces you can't risk getting sealer on until you are finished.

Cleaning Floor TIles

2010-09-20T18:31:00.000-07:00

CLEANING FLOOR TILES
By Devon Delany

Cleaning floor tile can be a relatively simple job depending on the type of tile your floor is made from.

Ceramic or natural stone tiles are among the most popular available. Ceramics are generally glazed and are manufactured to a uniform size and thickness, making them easier to clean. Stone tiles, on the other hand, are often less uniform and unglazed. Stone floors can look great for years and not show dirt as readily as ceramic, but they can also stain more easily and must be sealed and resealed from time to time. Ceramic tiles are more resistant to stains but more prone to scratches and wear, which can make them appear much older than they actually are. While ceramic tiles don’t need to be sealed, the grout between the tiles does; otherwise, it will discolor and make the floor look dirty no matter how often you clean it.

SOME TILE CLEANING TIPS

Make sure you have a mat near any entrance ways to collect as much dirt as possible before it ever reaches your tile floor. Take the mat outside and shake it clean at least once a week—more if it accumulates a lot of dirt quickly.

Sweep the floors regularly, especially if you have a porous or rough-textured floor tile where dirt can collect. You can also use a vacuum cleaner—just make sure not to use the beater-brush attachment, as this can scuff up your tile or beat the dirt into the grout.

Don’t use a sponge mop if your tiles and grout lines are uneven—it will only push water and dirt down off the tile and result in the need for intensive grout cleaning. Use a fabric mop or one with cotton coiled yarns.

Unglazed tiles will require a daily wet mop with warm water. If they are installed in heavy traffic areas, it’s just a matter of time before they stain and accumulate debris unless you clean them often. Stay away from cleaners with acidic ingredients since these can damage stone tile.

Avoid murky bucket water, as well; it will leave your floor hazy. Depending on the size of the floor, you may have to change the water several times. Also, mop the floor repeatedly with warm water after it’s been cleaned to ensure there’s no film on the tile.

CLEANING NATURAL STONE FLOOR TILE

Marble, limestone and Travertine tile flooring needs to be sealed to avoid permanent stains and requires specific cleaning products.

Granite tile, while almost indestructible, needs to be maintained, as well. It should be sealed to prevent stains and may require regular polishing, depending on the degree of traffic it sees.

Slate tile looks great but also needs to be sealed because it collects dirt with ease. Avoid using any acidic cleaners with natural stone tile—use only the cleaners recommended by the distributor or installer, and when in doubt, do a small spot test in an out-of-the-way corner.
Porcelain tile is about as maintenance free as it gets—just clean it with soap and warm water during your regular cleaning schedule.

Ceramic tile out of the box is generally resistant to water and stains and requires no special cleaners. Dilute some household cleaner and you’re good to go.

After washing your floor, it’s a good idea to give it a quick wipe with an absorbent cloth, sponge or paper towel. Air drying alone can lead to streaks on the tile surface.

When in doubt, always follow up with your tile distributer or contractor for cleaning advice.

Devon Delaney takes a lot of pride in steam cleaning his gleaming floors and tries to re-enact the iconic Risky Business floor sliding scene on a regular basis. His wife isn’t as amused anymore and takes great pleasure in occasionally forgetting to rinse off and buff a tile or two to add some surprise speed bump friction to his slide and keep him on his toes. She does however, swear by the beauty of tile floors and the ease of the new generation of floor cleaners and green cleaners.

The Art Of Tile

2010-09-18T13:22:00.000-07:00

"The Art Of Tile" is a good title as it reflects the design, imagination, hard work, and courage needed to take an idea combined with materials to effect your chosen outcome.

A lot of craftsmanship is needed to too. Craftsmanship, these days is a word that seems to be losing its meaning. It takes imagination and visualization to picture your bathroom, kitchen, or space in a completed form with new materials and colors.

Often we can build from a picture in a magazine. I can't tell you the number of times a homeowner taped a page torn from publication and said "I want that in here". We always try to please and they seem to understand it will not be "exactly" like the picture but, we get the picture. We can find ceramic materials and natural stone shapes that are similar and often an exact match, but the bottom line is to turn that visual picture into reality.

In building the tile design visually pictured in you or the homeowners mind, it is important that we get the visual ques we need to build in the flavor you want. As mentioned, photos taped to a wall can help but a close relationship with the installer is necessary. With that in mind homeowners need to understand it is important to provide design orders or information quickly and clearly. There is a financial aspect of time for both involved in the construction process. Work closely with the installer but in a way that will not extend the time and money needed to complete the project unless that is what you want of course.

Natural Stone is generally more expensive to install because it requires a lot more craftsmanship to install. With Natural Stone we cut, shape, and polish because there are much fewer manufactured pieces for edging and other applications like corners and edges. Some of us actually enjoy the forming and shaping process of a piece of Granite or Marble. I know I do from time to time.

Taking a tile design concept from an idea to something you can use is an accomplishment to be proud of. Usually it takes longer than you thought, it cost more than you thought, but it can also be more gorgeous, useful, and inviting than you thought.

So Much Dust In Tile Destruction

2010-09-17T11:22:00.000-07:00

(Click image to enlarge)

I watch these DIY Channel programs where the beleaguered homeowner and their interior design bathroom savior walk into a hapless bathroom and begin to pound the crap out the tile, walls, sheetrock, you name it. "What a mess". And, it is so very unnecessary.

With crowbars and hammers, sheetrock, and tile shards flying as the dust builds but the camera next closes in on a clean space with open studs ready for Hardie Backer or some other type of tile backing medium. What you don't see is all the work it takes to clean up that big mess and you don't need to do that.

In order to deconstruct your shower walls in big pieces with ceramic tile intact that will raise little dust and is much easier to handle, you need to know something about how your walls are built. First, sheetrock when it is used are 4'x8' sheets that are stacked from the bottom up. So, you can accurately guess there will be a seam behind the tile at 4 feet above the floor or 4 feet above the top of the tub rim.

Standard tubs are about 5 foot by 3 foot. I generally go to the middle of the 5 foot wall and remove tile down the middle to locate the horizontal seam. Then cut the sheetrock backing down the middle with a sawzall being careful not to cut any wire or plumbing that may be behind the wall. I then remove all the bull nosing or mud cap that surrounds the sides and top of the wall because that stuff falls of easily.

Then, I start at the top and begin to pull the top part of the shower walls off first. Generally the tile will be attached to the green board and you will be left with regular sheetrock remaining.

If you look at the photo above you are looking at an entire shower surround that came out in less than 10 pieces including the trash bags. Little dust except when cutting the sheetrock. Now, if you already have Hardie, Durock, plaster, or mud walls, that is a different story and another post. These type of walls need heavy work and a different work environment. These usually need a negative air pressure unit that keeps the flowing into and out of the work space.

I hope this may help someone out there who may be preparing to rip up their bath shower and ceramic tile.

Tip On Cleaning Tile

2010-09-14T21:35:00.000-07:00

The following are some tips on cleaning your tile. First, I have a question for you, do you rinse your hair after you shower? and how do you think your laundry would appear or feel if it were not rinsed?

This is something we all take for granted when it comes to cleaning your tile floors. Rinsing. It's like, mopping the floor twice! Yuck, I don't like it either,

So what can we do?, I have to say that these new steamer mops have earned a new place in cleaning tile. Depending upon the type of flooring you have determines the kind of care needed. Unfortunately, often the best looking flooring is the most expensive and delicate when cleaning.

Marble and Travertine are soft and porous. They have to be sealed and the PH in the water can effect it. The best way to maintain these materials is maintain them regularly with light cleaning using a small amount of detergent like a dish washing liquid. Then rinse.

I would advocate using steam to clean your Natural Stone or tile floors. Lightly clean a bit more often to keep the dust off. Use an area rug in places like in front of a sink, fridge, and cooking area to help keep oil off the floor. It's much easier to toss a small cotton area rug in the washer.

Breaking Out Tile

2010-09-11T10:17:00.000-07:00

Breaking out tile may be necessary for a variety of reasons. A kitchen or bath remodel can frequently change the flooring layout which would entail the removal of some tile in one area to be filled in another. Move a wall and you may need many feet of the same existing tile to repair only to find there is none.

This means removing the entire floor and this is going to be a lot of dirty, dusty, and heavy hard work. If one needs to replace a few tiles it can be done with simply with an old towel, hammer, and a good scraper. Change that tile to Marble and you are talking a whole new bucket-O-fish! We'll tackle that in another story and I've written about that in the archives, unless you are removing the entire Marble floor.

In the repair above I placed the canvas over the offending tile and busted it up with a hammer being certain not to strike the neighboring tile. Then scraped up the thinset. Covering the tile to be busted out eliminates chips and dust from flying all over the room and concentrates the cleanup.

On larger demo operations you should enlist the aid of a Hiltie (small electric hammer drill) with a spade bit. These are available at Home Depot for rent and worth every penny. Don't forget dust masks, eye protection, heavy gloves, knee pads and heavy duty plastic bags or dumpster for the broken tiles. Remember, regular tile and porcelain are coated with GLASS essentially and you need to think of it as such. Handle it improperly and it will slice through leather gloves like a razor. Trust me on this one. Don't learn that lesson the hard way.

Isolate the room with plastic or cover everything and have a fan blowing out a window. A negative pressure vent system would be better if available. In an average kitchen you may easily have to remove several hundred pounds of tile, thinset, and grout. So plan accordingly with time, materials, and equipment.

Note, when you've busted out the tile and the thinset is being reluctant to come out, add some water to help loosen it up. You don't have to flood the place but use a spray bottle and it can be helpful scraping up thinset. Also use a reasonably large scraper with changeable blades. This will help too.

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How Much Tile To Save?

2010-09-04T14:11:00.000-07:00

OK, you've just completed your kitchen or bathroom remodel and you or the contractor is picking up tools after completion. There is a box and a half of natural stone, half box of trim, and a few pieces of mosaic that cost enough for a down payment on a new Jaguar. "What do you keep and what can you return and for how long?"

Listen up and read carefully! GET THIS QUESTION ANSWERED BEFORE YOU BUY YOUR TILE MATERIAL! Whether it's you, or your contractor, get the return question answered.

Virtually all tile vendors will offer some kind of return but you need to know with specificity regarding each type of material. Here is the 411 on tile return policy (basically there is no specific standard).

Some products are end of the line and you cannot expect a return or refund because they will not manufacture any more. Use your own judgment here but be sure you have enough tile to do the job and don't worry about excess.

Products and vendors can have different return periods from 30 days to 90 days and they may specify sealed box and deny open boxes in case someone went through and pulled out good tile and replaced them with chipped tiles. Makes sense to me.

Most big box stores have a 90 day return policy but check it out first. Generally if there is a scan sticker on each piece of tile they are sold individually, so getting a return from excess is easier than say a contractor supply. This changes with "close out" products as one might expect.

Also, understand this, some materials are manufactured on demand. That is, you order some material, it is manufactured and sent to you on your demand. They will understandably be reluctant to offer a refund on excess in a custom process.

As for how much to keep, my advice is this; keep at least 5 extra full tiles in a kitchen environment. If you are using a soft floor tile like Marble or Travertine, keep a full box of 10 extra and here is why. If you have narrow grout joints in your kitchen or bath with Travertine or Marble and you chip one, replacing that one tile can easily cost you 3 tiles in the replacement process. Why? replacing this stuff can often be akin to disarming a land mine. The slightest pressure on the tile next to the one you are to replace can easily destroy it too.

Replacing a Natural Stone Tile is worth having a professional do it and it can get pricey. You have to use a dry diamond grinder and vacuum or hand held wet saw to essentially cut the tile out of the floor along the grout line. No easy task and fraught with danger of breaking adjoining tiles.

As for Granite, Porcelain, or standard tile keep at least 5 full tiles if possible and as far as pieces go, there will generally be some almost full tiles with some edges trimmed off. It's OK to keep some trim pieces as long as there are some full "factory edges" available for use. Look at the job and use common sense to see if any pieces could fill a repair. Most tile damage occurs in the kitchen from dropped utensils or an ill tempered chef, but I have replaced Marble in bathrooms due to stains too.

Always order at least 10% more than is required for a job and that may mean buying a full box not needed for the job. But, it is better to have more than less. This becomes even more important when your order is shipped from a port. Accept the fact that you need to maintain some extra tile. I can assure you, it is much easier to have some extra for repair on hand, than trying to find a 10 or even 5 year old tile still in stock. Besides, whether it is Natural Stone or simple ceramic tile, finding the exact dye lot is next to hitting the Powerball lottery twice.

How much extra tile should you save for future repair? 5 to 10 full pieces in 12x12 plus and more full pieces as the size decreases.

Beyond TIle

2010-08-29T21:43:00.000-07:00

A lot of work and thought goes on beyond a simple tile job. Next, you are thinking about paint, wall texture, trim, cabinetry, plumbing fixtures, mirrors, lighting, and a general flavor or design plan.

This plan can be simple or it can be complex. Expensive, or it can be an eclectic combination of colors, textures and items that make you feel good or comfortable. I like to tell folks to step out and try different colors and contrasting materials. There are a lot of new and old that can be placed in such a manor that it evokes the kind of emotion that you wish to explore.

Thinking about design, restaurants have really stepped up to the plate in adding design elements to add bold interior and exterior architectural emotion. Think about Bennigans, TJ Friday's, and others that hang all sorts of glam on the walls that make your dining experience more entertaining. I know some that don't like Ruth Chris Steak Houses. Every one that I've been in has been a windowless uninteresting box but the food was good.

I am not suggesting that one hangs junk all over the space you wish to remodel but know that you can spice up a space with different design elements that are beyond tile.

Competing Tile Remodel Ideas

2010-08-26T19:51:00.000-07:00

Competing Remodel Tile Design Ideas in the home can be a real challenge. The husband refuses to compromise in color and the wife refuses to compromise in material. Budget has a great deal of influence of course and today's economy makes budget decisions even more important.

There are big box stores like Floor and Decor that have tons of Natural Stone and other products that you can spend hours walking through. The reason I bring this up is that this would be a great place for a couple to select their product. More to choose from and more options. This could serve well in cooling differences in selection.

I can't tell you how many times our "blue prints" if you will consisted of photos torn from Kitchen & Bath magazine or House Beautiful. This is another idea one could use to meld the other spouse into your unique design plan. Find some really cool photos you wish to use as a design base and work from there.

Check out this video below! The bright light in this video in the shower is actually a "Solartube". We had to block it off from time to time during construction of this bath because it was too bright. You will see a TV behind the mirror.

This tile was new on the market. A Porcelain with a denim cloth sort of surface feel. As I was grouting this product I washed it once, twice, three times, four times, and on the fifth scrubbing I called the manufacturer. That is when I discovered it required an acid wash as standard procedure.

Husband Or Wife, Who Is The Best Tile Setter?

2010-08-14T12:31:00.000-07:00

I have been asked, "Can I set this tile myself?" "Of course", I would always say. And, I've seen some right respectable jobs done by homeowners too.

So, who does the better job? The husband or the wife"? Guess what? In every instance I've seen, the housewife wins the honor of best tile setter when compared the husbands. I thought that was an interesting observation. I think that girls have the natural artistic instinct to plan colors and textures and the guys seem to be impatient with visualizing the final product.

Setting tile is hard work made worse by an impatient and unimaginative spouse. The wife sees the final product as a piece of art to reflect some sense of style or accent. The husband simply wants the shower fixtures to work for the cheapest price and is much less concerned about the aesthetics.

There are exceptions to this of course but recently we engaged a total bathroom remodel. As we were in the process of preparing the area the wife walked us through the kitchen where she had recently completed the back splash. I was very impressed and told her so.

There are common issues that arise when setting tile in a back splash. One of them is laying out the tile so the cut ends are even at each end and the electrical outlets fit snugly. Well, she had done her homework and patiently installed the tile exactly as we would have done it. Perhaps a bit faster but nonetheless, the gal did a superb job.

Types of Tile

2010-08-09T21:12:00.000-07:00

There were not as many types of tile when I got into this business many years ago. But, that tile was a lot more substantial back then. The kind of tile we installed in the late 1970s is a far cry from what you see today. The old 3"x6" subway tile for example was about 5/8ths of an inch thick. The old 4"x4" was about the same being very substantial material indeed. You can still buy it today but now that comes at a premium.

We recently installed some 3"x6" in two different homes. The difference between the two were obvious and dramatic. The thin tile was about 1/4 inch thick, broke easily, and didn't hold much grout being so thin. The other lake house we did had hand made 3"x6" subway tile over a half inch thick and looked fabulous. There was plenty of depth for grout and this tile should remain maintenance free for years. The other thin tile is going to require caulking sooner than later.

Some tile is manufactured for roofs, piping, roads, parking lots, even the space shuttle. You will find tile used in art, decorations, and many industrial uses. Inventors are working hard to design tile that will produce electricity.

Being in this business, when I walk into a building I am always looking at floors and noting the type of tile used in an entry, kitchen, bath, restroom, hall, or utility. Types of tile, all types for many uses.

I've seen a bright orange sleek tile used on a commercial roof and it looked fabulous. Similar to the photo above it was gleaming, attractive, and inviting. When an attractive tile job evokes emotion you know you have an excellent job. I always like it when customers ask for advice on project because I am willing to suggest advice on how to spiff it up based upon experience. I like to try to evoke some emotion and flavor in a tile project.

New Look in Porcelain Tile

2010-07-24T14:27:00.000-07:00

I'll admit it. I have a love-hate relationship with porcelain. "Why, well the hate comes from the installation side". I don't like installing it because:
A. it's heavy, more than regular tile and and some natural stone depending upon the tile (if you use porcelain and are installing it yourself, use nothing larger that 12x12 and the job will be easier for several reasons primarily in the ability and equipment size to cut it)
B. unforgiving, you even think about clinking a factory edge into a hard surface and you get chip damage
C. hard to cut, sometimes a hand cutter can work but even wet saws can have a hard time if you don't have a porcelain blade
D. has a mind of it's own and will break from time to time when cutting for no apparent reason-YEA, no apparent reason

On the love side, there are some porcelain styles that are absolutely stunning in appearance. Perhaps that is because of the glassy nature of the material but great looking just the same. I like to wander around flooring and tile shops from time to time when picking up material just to see what's new and try to stay ahead of the trends. It's fairly cheap too, often rolling in at just under $3.00 per ft. I ruffled through a number of very attractive porcelain tile colors and textures today that I could see on a couple of my floors.

What I am seeing now is some porcelain tile that has a glossy finish. This reminds me of highly polished Granite Tile or even Marble. I can easily picture this application in bathroom's and even kitchens where one could envision nice clean looking shiny floors that could form the foundation for other textures in tile.

Natural Stone VS Manufactured Tile

2010-07-13T10:06:00.000-07:00

Man made verses natural stone tile. If you think about it, man is simply duplicating nature in color, texture, and style. Virtually every color tile in the man made pallet can be found in nature. Man is doing a fairly good job in replicating these colors and textures in porcelain tile and other mediums.

I am in the tile and remodel business and even I've been fooled at a glance. Upon further inspection however it is simple to distinguish between the two. The reason for man made material is simple. To make installation simpler and add options like mud cap, surface cap, and corners. These are specific items that can enhance a tile job. But, these special parts also come at a price.

The durability of porcelain for example is exceptional, which is a plus but it does not have the warmth and feel of natural stone in my view. Porcelain is often very difficult to work with because it is so very hard. Cutting porcelain tile can be a real challenge on a hand cutter and even a wet saw. Some have a mind of their own when cutting and it is fairly common to break more tile tile than usual when cutting porcelain. I use a porcelain blade on my wet saw specifically to get through the stuff in a timely manor.When porcelain is selected just be sure to have ordered extra, about 10% to be sure you cover breakage. Breakage can consist of broken tiles in box during shipping, installation, and in the hand crafting process.

Natural stone will always be my material of choice but in certain applications I think a man made material is best. Porcelain as an example is extremely hard and would be a good choice in high volume traffic areas but this material is, well, "glass" and chips easily if one were to drop a pan on it in the kitchen. Marble would not be a good choice in high volume traffic areas unless-----you have regular professional maintenance to keep it clean. Granite is a good choice for floors and countertops because it is one of natures hardest and most durable materials that do not suffer from hot pans and sharp knives.

Man made material can go easier on the budget too but don't expect either one of these materials to be exactly square or the same thickness. Because of firing tile and the polishing process of natural stone each tile will vary in size. We are often asked to run a real tight joint on some tile jobs and our answer is, "the tile will tell us the joint size". We will always do our very best to accommodate what the customer wants but they need to understand the dynamics of the material. If for example two separate tiles from one box are 1/32nd off, larger or smaller that means you can have a 16th difference in two tiles of a grout line and an 8th of an inch over three tiles which is very noticeable.

We do not have the luxury of opening every box and pull every tile to measure and calibrate each one before installation. Some cases we do but this is when we begin early having issues with tile quality. Man made or natural stone is your choice. Go natural when you can and synthetic when needed the choices are yours.

Epoxy Tile Grout

2010-06-22T20:23:00.000-07:00

Messy stuff, expensive, labor intensive, hard on equipment, gets easier the more you know.

Special use Grout like Epoxy Grout has unique uses like around pool decks, shower floors, and areas where chemicals could be an issue with regular grout. I've used it "rarely" but our latest adventure involved in excess of about 3500 feet of tile to be grouted. This took a team of guys a couple days of intense work and equipment to complete.

We went through sponges by the dozen, about a dozen buckets, wore out 3 new floats, hundreds if not thousands of gallons of water for cleaning and enough sweat to fill the swimming pool. Plan on knees, forearms, wrists, and back to be sore for a while.

What was learned, use water generously first to loosen the just spread grout, change water frequently, having more help than is needed is a plus, do not allow the product to sit very long without washing, wear comfortable knee pads, wear clothes as you would for painting, keep a supply of paper towels and Acetone handy to clean the Epoxy Grout from items or areas you do not want grout on, do not stop until your area is clean.

If you are planning to use this material find someone who has experience. Temperature and humidity will make a difference in setting time for the product and disaster looms if you get this wrong.

Tile Shower Remodel For the Disabled and Needed Mods

2010-06-15T19:20:00.000-07:00

I am going to ask you, "what is wrong with this picture?" Click to enlarge. "Still don't see it?" "Well look again".

OK, here's the 411 on this photo. I didn't set the tile in this shower designed for wheelchairs. It is Travertine except for the wall tile. What you don't see is the hours I spent literally scrubbing the hell out of the wall tile and the floors getting the tire and steel/metal marks off!

What is needed in this shower is a stainless steel bumper of sorts at the level of impact where a tire or wheel hub would come in contact with the walls. Travertine is a soft material like Marble and I wouldn't suggest either one for a disabled shower walls or floor. Granite would be much more durable. Porcelain or regular tile will show metal and tire marks and getting them off is tough..

A stainless steel bumper set about 14 inches off the floor would be a good option to eliminate this problem. Personal experience you know, I hope this helps someone.

Shower Remodel and Plumbing Madness

2010-06-13T20:55:00.000-07:00

Shower Remodels often include plumbing madness, that is, a lot of plumbing planning. Check out this layout, click to enlarge.

As you can see this is a far cry from the completed project. What you can't see is the final project that has no blueprint. It was just an idea sketched on a few sheets of engineering paper the homeowner wanted.

This was a time consuming project and an expensive endeavor. This is a "custom" tile project that took a great deal of time much to the dismay of our manager. A standard refrain is "why is this job taking so long?" "Well, if you only knew of all the measuring, cutting, fitting, soldering, sanding, fluxing, cleaning, and so on that was required, you would know.

Then, we had to hook up hoses to test the valves and entire system before adding the insulation, vapor barrier, Hardie Backer, Merkrete, then tile. Below is the completed project.

We never got to see the completed project after we installed the tile. This job received a frame-less glass enclosure which takes several days and we had moved on to other jobs.

A note about frame-less glass; It takes up to two weeks to get your glass and here is why. The enclosure has to measured very carefully, then the glass get's cut, then the glass is packaged up and sent to a glass tempering plant where your glass is heated up to temper the glass. Then, the glass is packaged up and sent back to your glass guy. He then schedules an install. This is why we rarely get to see a finished project. This job turned out very nice.

"I wonder if they really use all the spray nozzles that were installed?"

Merkrete To Waterproof Your Shower

2010-06-10T21:17:00.000-07:00

This stuff is amazing! It is also very messy, can be sorta fun to work with and really does the job. You will find it primarily in commercial applications but we have found ourselves knee deep in the stuff from time to time on residential projects.

I can vouch for the service life and waterproof nature of Merkrete because when I was applying the material to this very shower (see shot below) I accidentally got some of it on my T-shirt. Thinking it was ruined I was planning to relegate the garment to clothes I would wear when painting.

However, I can now show customers the patch of Merkrete on my shirtsleeve that has survived several dozen washings and is still water resistant.

If you are planning on living your home for a very long time I would highly advocate Merkrete. It easily forms to unusual forms and surfaces. You simply paint it on with a large paint brush and use a fiberglass mesh on and in corners.
Click on photos to enlarge. Yep, Merkrete is good stuff. Ask for it on your next project.

It Isn't Always Setting Tile

2010-06-01T20:06:00.000-07:00

Frequently it's waiting for material, busting out concrete, installing light cans, fixtures, plumbing fixtures, hanging then taping and bedding sheetrock, cleaning, sanding, painting, setting carpet, measuring, and figuring out exactly how to perform work tasks efficiently and conferring with the customer.

Planning is always very necessary before completing a tile job. A little care in planning can make the difference between a so-so job or one that fits well and looks stunning.

Planning can be as simple as pulling out as many tiles as it takes to cross a room to arrange the fit. This takes time but is necessary to determine focus points and where you want the tile to lay.

We frequently get hammered for not being a bit farther down the road in production because of this, but it isn't always about setting tile.

Keeping Your Tile Clean

2010-05-02T21:04:00.000-07:00

We all know that after a while mold begins it's ugly journey in making your shower look cruddy. Well, modern chemicals to the rescue. Lysol 4 in 1 spray. There are others but this is what I use regularly. Don't get the spray gel, just get the spray, it costs about $3.00 and should last a couple months.

Now, being an installer I know what it takes to rebuild a shower. It's a lot of work, time and money. So, we all want to stave off the inevitable as long as we can. I use Lysol 4 in 1 spray after every other shower or so. I simply spritz the corners and areas where mold likes to accumulate and the next day it is bright and clean.

I am often asked what are the best solutions to clean tile and natural stone is. In man made materials you can use stuff like Lysol 4 in 1, but on natural stone we' re talking a whole new ball game. PH in your water can affect your natural stone tile when you get down to it, but as far as I am concerned the natural stone is just going to have to take whatever I plan to use on it. But, your natural stone suppliers have other ideas about cleaning natural stone tile and I'll share those with you shortly.

Flat Bottom Sinks Suck, Here's Why!

2010-03-14T20:10:00.000-07:00

In major bathroom remodels we frequently install natural stone counter tops with under-mount sinks and many different styles and variations of sinks. This photo below is a fine example of elegant simple style and function. Click on photo to enlarge.

Over the past two remodels we installed some under-mount sinks that were square with a flat bottom. The first thing I discovered after hooking up the plumbing and cleaning the sink was that----it was difficult to clean and when dirty water was introduced it covered the entire bottom of the sink. I guess what I am trying to say is when you wash dirty hands in the sink, the bottom of the sink will be dirty and stays that way until you clean it.

The soiled water does not swirl completely down the drain as would happen in the above lovely example. Frankly, as attractive as some flat bottom sinks may appear I was disappointed in their function. It is kind of like allowing a stain to sit on a counter top.

So, if you prefer form over function and like having to clean your sink after each use, by all means get one.

However, if you are practical, prefer form and function select the above example. You will not be disappointed. If one were to ask me about a flat bottom porcelain sink I would advise against getting one for the above reasons.

Natural Stone Is Cool

2010-03-02T17:59:00.000-08:00

I admit it, I like it, natural stone is cool. Mostly, you don't cut natural stone, you hand craft it. Many of the cuts and parts need to be shaped, molded and polished. Some can be found that are manufactured like moldings, corners, edges, and various parts that are frequently used in design elements--and expensive.

On a recent install we did a huge shower with two wide and tall walls, a shower floor and tub surround all done in 4x4 tumbled travertine tiles. Looked really cool when complete.

One of the benefits of a tumbled stone is it looks more natural. Tumbled stone has various sized and widths so you will be required to go with a larger grout joint. I did a Marble floor recently, the home owner requested a a tight grout line like 1/8th inch. As hard as I tried I was not able to got that close because even though it appeared the tiles were exactly the same size, they were not. Even a size difference of one 32nd adds up to one 16th and then one 8th in only three tiles! So if you are planning an 1/8th inch grout line you could easily lose it quickly or expand it to a quarter inch grout line in a hurry.

So how do you deal with it? If you would have looked into the entry where the natural stone tiles were in boxes you would have seen them all open and a handful removed from each one randomly. That is how you do it. Pull one or two tile from various boxes to install. Lay them in place dry if needed to check for fit then thinset in.

Always remember to use white thinset for light natural stone and gray for dark.

Looks are Deceiving these days

2010-02-18T22:26:00.000-08:00

Looks are deceiving these days because porcelain tile makers are getting very talented at matching marble and natural stone.

I have recently worked on two floor projects where I even had a hard time figuring out if the floor material was real or natural. Although the customers thought it was real, upon close inspection I found the tell tale screen print dot matrix in the surface and a patterm. All man made tile be it ceramic or porcelain will have a pattern. That just is the nature of manufacturing.

The screen print of different colors blended into a stone design can be seen up close. You will be able to see little tiny dots of color as black and white newspapers do to shade photos.

But, it can be very difficult to tell the difference and in many ways including economic, are a better buy. You can get it cheaper, the colors are more consistent, you can get it in differnt sizes, trim may also be easily available, and they are easier to maintain.

As I said, I've been around this business a while and at a distance or upon quick inspection I've had a hard time discerning real from man made tile. Do what your budget will allow and don't be afraid to add something interesting to your tile.

If you look at ancient Roman and Greek architecture that is still being unearthed we find intricate and detailed murals, mosaics, and designs in small tiles on floors and walls. If they did that back then we can do it now. We've done a little but not enough for my liking.

Installing Natural Stone Flooring

2010-01-24T18:24:00.000-08:00

Installing Natural Stone Flooring carries with it more challenges than installing maunfactured tile. Natural stone has a grain or formation line frequently which can also double as a weak point. When installing natural stone with tight grout joints you are frequently lifting the tile to adjust mortar volume to raise or or lower one edge or another.

This can be necessary to effect a good flat surface. But, in lifting each tile with a margin trowel it is easy to bust tile in half or break out corners. I generally use a bit wetter thinset that allows a less sticky medium to lift the tiles up for adjustment.

I also mix up about 1/2 a bucket of thinset and stick one tile at a time to be sure all tiles fit well with each other. It just takes more time for natural stone.

Natural Stone Tile might appear perfectly square and polished but, that would be far from the truth. If you are selecting a 1/8 inch grout joint and the tile from one box to another is only 1/32nd larger, in two tiles you are at 1/16th of an inch and at the end of only the third tile you are closing in on losing your entire grout joint!

So, it is good advise to open every box and pull tiles from each mixing them up. This is also a good practice in general for the same reason. Also, these tiles, natural stone are notorious for differences in thickness. Again it may only be a 32nd but you will notice the difference and you may want to pull a tile here and there to place in another area.

Shower TIle, "What You Don't See"

2010-01-07T19:01:00.000-08:00

This shower turned out great. But, what you don't see is what it took to get to this point.

All the existing tile had to be chipped and scraped up. The wall to the right had to be rebuilt and plumbed. The drain from the existing shower that had to be moved was inside a concrete beam poured solid. It took me a solid afternoon with an electric jack hammer to bust it out s o we could move it.

The ceiling was stripped of all the pop corn and other areas had to be patched and filled. Plumbing inside the wall had to be moved and corrected. The electrician was kept busy moving wiring to install new lights while we located the holes for the light cans.

At several points in the construction there were 4 dudes in this small space setting tile, pulling wire, taping and bedding sheet rock, replacing plumbing fixtures and more.

But, in the end this bath remodel is one that would fit snugly between the pages of Better Homes and Gardens. The tile, fixtures, textures, trim, and paint colors settled into an attractive combination that simply makes one smile upon entering! My friends did a fabulous job on this design.

Shower Drain Trouble, Hair Conditioners

2010-01-03T17:19:00.000-08:00

I think I have posted this shot before but it deserves a second look. In a bathroom remodel not too long ago we found this in a shower drain line.

As you can see the line was almost completely blocked off except for this 1/2 inch by 1 inch slot that remained to carry off water. "What is it ?, it's wax and I've seen it before".

Yes, wax. Wax is a medium that is used in hair conditioner and shampoo that performs several functions. One, it can act as a preservative and two, it acts as a suspension agent. A suspension agent holds all the various chemicals, water, oils, and so on together so it appears as one solid liquid. If it were not there you would have to shake up the contents each time you used the stuff to mix it up. It would all separate into various layers, and thus, not be very appealing to consumers.

"What does this have to do with tile work?" Well, nothing really, except when we have a new shower pan and drain installed we need to be sure it will function properly without trouble for years. So, we test and inspect these things and I think you may find this observation useful.

I also thought readers might be interested in what constant use of hair conditioner will do to your drain system.

You will not hear this from plumbers, they make big bucks cleaning this stuff out for you. "Have you ever seen a picture like this from a plumber?"

Replacing a Broken or Chipped Floor TIle

2010-01-01T19:46:00.000-08:00

"OK, your kitchen floor was new and beautiful a few years back and still looks great but your daughter dropped a frying pan and chipped the tile". You remedied the ugly blemish by covering it with a small carpet in front of the stove but you really want to get it fixed but how?

Well, this is why you need to keep some extra tile particularly in the kitchen where heavy utensils often wind up on the floor chipping or cracking the tile. You should also keep a bit of grout with the tile or at least document the color of the grout.

You can do this yourself or spend about $50.00 to $100 or more to fix it. Here is how I do it as long as this is standard tile with sanded grout.

I use a canvas type tarp that you can get at your local Home Center or paint store, a hammer, chisel, scraper, and vacuum cleaner (shop vac). Have some thinset, grout, tile, a couple buckets, and a sponge.

I place the tarp over the offending tile making certain I know which one it is and bash the tile under the tarp. Break it into small pieces being very careful not to strike other tiles (do not use this technique with Marble or Natural Stone). Remove the tarp. The tarp is used to minimize dust and to contain pieces of tile flying all over the place. Scrape and vac the now vacant space being very careful not to damage surrounding tiles. Be sure to trim off any remaining grout. Clean the spot with a damp sponge.

Place a piece of duct tape on the bottom of the replacement tile so that you can use it to raise the tile back out of the hole. Drop tile in the hole to be sure it fits then mix up some adhesive and set the tile making sure it fits level with the surrounding tiles. A few hours later you can grout it. Mark it with tape or cover it with a box or something to keep traffic off of it for 24 hrs.

Now you will have your blemish free floor.

Fixing Natural Stone with a tight grout joint should not be attempted by amateurs. These require patience, skill, and some equipment you probably do not have. If you bash Marble that has 1/8th inch grout joints with a little thinset in the joints will destroy every adjoining tile and every piece of Marble in the same zip code. "I'm not kidding". "That stuff can be a ral bi--ch".

I had a friend ask me recently if I could fix a busted tile in their bath. It is Marble tile with thin joints. I told him, "I don't wanna!".

Re-Grouting, Truth and Consequences

2009-12-21T18:43:00.000-08:00

A recent shower re-grout job that should have lasted no more than two days including sealing the tile grout, turned into almost a week. These things happen.

When I was removing the grout at the bottom corner water was discovered under the floor tile. This is not good. A floor holding water under tile is a breeding ground for mold.

It didn't take long for me to figure out what the original setters were trying to do. They wanted full tiles from floor to ceiling but that would have meant cutting a small strip at the bottom or the top for it to fit correctly but they opted to just slap a ton of thinset on the floor tile to build it up to the bottom row of tile. Bad move.

As the grout weakened, thinned and broke through water got under the tile and stayed there. Caulk was applied but it trapped the water under the tile. Still not good. I wound up having to bust out the floor, add about an inch and a quarter of dry-pack concrete to bring it up to the bottom of the wall tile. I then set 2" x 2" tile on the new floor and then re-grouted the shower. The next day I sealed the grout and then caulked.

So be aware that even on a small job things can go wrong and the price for repair can double or even triple instantly. By the way, I don't like it when things like that happen. It is irritating for the customer and it automatically creates an icy environment where I feel the need to explain everything in detail and why.

Re-grouting is frequently needed to re-seal an older shower stall. This is not an easy job and most powered equipment creates a lot of dust removing the grout and powered equipment can easily damage the tile as well. There really isn't much out there that can do a job better that a dude and hand grout remover tools. It may not be necessary to remove all of it. If the grout is secure I will most likely leave it unless it becomes a color issue.

Generally, the truth is, if you feel the need to re-grout your shower you most likely have further damage. If you have tile falling off you might get someone to do a small repair but don't expect a warranty on the work. If tile is falling off the backing can no longer be trusted and probably needs replacing. This escalates the repair cost a lot but I have done a bit more of that lately. I can make it look "purdy" but I let the homeowner know it is a "repair" but, l a rebuild is recommended.

A repair on a leaky shower can extend the life of your shower. We've often removed tile and found new backer board on one wall of another. Generally directly under the shower head. We've found different tile as well, and ants, ant termites, and dead rats, and..........

How Much Tile to Buy

2009-11-15T16:50:00.000-08:00

We are often asked how much tile to buy when figuring for a tile remodel. My answer is often followed up with "it depends".

It depends on many factors. Let's start with the type of tile. Regular ceramic or porcelain tile we don't get too much breakage. On soft natural stones we expect maybe 1 in ten to be broken in transit.

So, expect about 10% to be broken out of the box. This doesn't mean the tile is un-usable, but it could be depending upon where it was supposed to go. Then you have to consider tile design. If you have your tile installed in a diamond pattern it will take a small amount more due to cuts around corners as it does add some complexity.

When the amount of tile really becomes and issue is when your tile has to be shipped in from California or some other port. That is when you want to be sure. Measure two and even three times just to make sure you will have enough. This goes for surface cap, corners, mud cap and other items of special interest.

Adding design elements only adds to the design element tiles but if you use up a lot of factory edges around design elements you can eat up more regular tile than you might think.

So, in general here is my advice, figure the total square footage needed then add 10%. If it is natural stone add 15% and generally, if you wind up with unopened boxes the vast majority of tile retailers will take it back within 30 days.

With regular tile I would still suggest 10% over estimated and this goes with design elements too.

Prepping The Floor For TIle

2009-11-01T18:50:00.000-08:00

We recently removed some linoleum from a kitchen and dining room. By we, I mean me. I started installing flooring when I was still in high school and after I got out for a few years. Then I started installing everything from carpet to Saltio. This included vinyl sheet and tile we installed with cutback.

Most of this comes in 9 foot goods as we called them and it was installed with mastic. This is a sticky substance that has improved over the years making it easier to clean from tools and other surfaces. But, the older stuff could really hold the paper down.

On most vinyl tear outs the old flooring comes up fairly easily. This particular job didn't. I spent an entire day carving the vinyl off first, then soaking down the paper backing and scraping that off. It's been a long time since I've run into material that was stuck that good.

In most cases, if the vinyl is well adhered to the floor it is not uncommon to tile over it. There are some advantages if you have a cracked slab. But, in most cases we remove it.

I hope I never get the chance to do that again. Even with knee pads it hurts these days.

Tile Expanses

2009-10-25T21:03:00.000-07:00

We are seeing more and more people opting to add tile over the majority of their floors. From the kitchen through the living room and down the hall into the bedrooms and baths.

There are a lot of advantages. Less wear and tear. Ease of maintenance. No need to worry about pet stains and cleanup is a snap.

You see a lot of this in Spanish and Southwest design as well as Tropical locals. Our last trip to Hawaii was spent in a condo in Princeville on Kuai. The floors were a marvelous simple tile that was cool to the touch. This tile was about 9x9 and almost a cobalt blue in color. I have never seen this ceramic before or since but it reminded one of the deep blue ocean color. You could almost see the multi colored fish swimming below your feet! Wonderful material.

Think about it as I did. "How often has a simple flooring given you an emotional experience by taking you to another place in time?" The Dallas Convention Center is full of interesting designs built from Terrazzo inspiration. Anyone who has been to Fry's Electronics walks onto multicolored tile floors that are the envy of all retail outlets.

Many retail outlets use wood planking in different areas to add a different emotion when shopping. I recall the old Foley's having a teak like wood planking for flooring in the Nautica style section and it worked. Ralph Lauren Clothing often uses Old English Colonial and Equine flair in their areas with dark wood floors.

I have often spoken about a theme for flooring in your home. Not just a floor covering but a style element to add flavor to your space.

Keeping The Mold Away

2009-10-13T20:37:00.000-07:00

I have a problem with all these eco-friendly cleaning products. "So, what's my problem?", I haven't found a single one that works worth a "tinkers dam". Let alone the extra money you spend for the word "green" or eco-friendly.

What's my favorite?, "Lysol 4- in- One Spray". I keep a couple bottles in the cabinet and after each shower I spritz the wet sides and areas that like to spawn mold with a few shots of the stuff and our shower, though in need of a rebuild I admit, it stays mold and mildew free. You don't need a lot, just hit the corners and areas that seem prone to attract mold.

This is best for standard showers with ceramic or porcelain tile. I haven't tried it with natural stone that requires a sealer but I am fairly sure it would deteriorate the sealer. So I couldn't recommend it for that.. It is possible for natural stone like Marble or Travertine to stain and I am not sure what would happen to the surface. I think that would be a good test for me to try down the road.

There are some products that even Lysol makes that are for everyday use but I've found them useless. Shoot the everyday stuff on an area that is prone to mildew and it and other products do nothing good to report. A waste of money.

Let's face it. We all have very busy lives and the last thing we all want to do is spend a Saturday morning scrubbing the showers and tubs. A much simpler way is to just shoot the wet walls and floor with some Lysol 4 in One regularly and spend more time with the family. Or on your computer, the phone, in bed, with the kids, or having fun.

Argument Over Installing a Dishwasher?

2009-10-08T22:55:00.000-07:00

Tile jobs often require us to perform a lot of tasks. The following is something done by re-modelers daily all over on ceramic tile and Granite counter top projects.

This last weekend I was listening to a popular talk show host telling the story of the purchase of a new dishwasher. He ordered it from a well known box hardware outfit that said, "buy your dishwasher and get free delivery, installation and we'll haul off the old one for you".

He was surprised when the unit arrived at the store and was told to come and get it. "I would have been surprised too". On top of that, they said you needed to have a licensed plumber to hook it up. The store relented and delivered the unit but still would not hook it up. It seems they were using National advertising that didn't apply to this state. "Really?" I think the real problem is that these big box stores can't hire a licensed plumber to do the job.

I know that there is always a possibility of a water leak that causes a lot of bewildering damage. But, hooking up a dishwasher is not much more complicated than changing the oil in your car technically.

There is one thing that I still can't understand, many manufactures install a plug in the drain line. It's difficult to see sometimes so let this be a reminder. This anomaly also occurs in garbage disposers if you hooked one up that doesn't work.

All one needs to do is attach the drain line, water feed lines, plug it in and slide it into the space. Some require you to connect the power leads. Some dishwashers are now hard wired instead of using and outlet plug. Still not more difficult than replacing a light fixture or installing a ceiling fan.

Now is when you should turn it on and run it through a cycle to be sure there are no leaks. If you are satisfied then you can adjust the dishwasher so it's frame is flush with the face of the cabinets, adjust the feet to raise it up. Then at the top there are two installation tabs. Open the door and you can drive a couple small screws up into the underside of the counter top to secure the unit.

Nowadays, there is a lot of Granite, Silestone, and other very hard surfaces that ruin these plans. What to do?, some dishwashers come with mounting pads on the sides. If not, epoxy a wood strip under the counter top where the mounting tabs are located. They cannot be thick and the mounting screws need to be short. You really don't need much to secure the dishwasher as they are very light. They don't move around like your washing machine might be inclined to do.

We often use auto body filler "bondo" to secure undermount sinks with epoxy. You can use that to attach wood to the underside of Granite. I wouldn't suggest drilling holes into the Granite unless you know what you are doing.

The doors of dishwashers often need to be adjusted. That is done outside before you slide it into position. There is a spring on each side of the door where you can add or reduce tension on the door so it will not have to be raised from the floor without effort or have to hold it down to while you load the dishes.

Installing a dishwasher is simple, made complex by lack of knowledge and a little fear. I recently installed a new one at my home and it took about 30 minutes and my handy Milwaukee 18 volt cordless drill.

In many tile and Granite remodel jobs we are tasked to do a lot of different things. Installing a dishwasher posed less of challenge that setting or grouting tile. Installing some plumbing fixtures can get interesting because we get fixtures manufactured all over the world and directions can be cryptic at best making a quick install a time consuming task.

But, for the lowly dishwasher, installation on a difficulty scale of 1 through 10 when 10 is the most complex, I would give this task barely a 2.

Poor Tile Work

2009-10-04T21:48:00.000-07:00

We don't always know when we come in to repair a tile problem if the job was performed by the homeowner or a supposed professional. Either way a homeowner may be reluctant to admit it. Basic tile installation problems arise from time to time. We run into it frequently.

On a recent tile repair the task was to remove and replace the grout that was and is continually breaking out leaving a constant source of grit and vacant grout lines. "What is the cause?", I found out when I pulled out the first loose tile.

On a wood floor you need a cement based backing for the tile if you use thinset. Thinset doesn't work well on wood. You might get away with mastic on wood but thinset isn't good.

If you plan to place tile say in an entry over wood, we advise placing 1/4 inch Hardibacker first but if elevation of the tile is an issue then use mastic if you have no other choice.

What happens is the wood sucks out the moisture from the thinset very quickly and will not adhere to the wood. This also increases the likelihood that the surface of the thinset will dry out or flash set before you get tile into it and does not adhere to the tile. It may seem like it is secure but it is not. Then you grout the tile and soon after traffic over the tile begins to loosen and the grout crumbles.

Now, the best solution is to remove and replace all the obvious loose tile and regrout, even better would be to remove and replace all of it $$$$. But, understanding economics these days the lesser of a fix may work.

Clean Up, You Jerks!

2009-09-24T21:38:00.000-07:00

We were working on a remodel in the North Dallas area. Part of the job was being performed by another contractor. In this instance, you can see we had removed the tub and were in the process of installing new tile in preparation for a new tub.

That evening the other contractor was tasked with removing a fur down from above the tub, install new sheet rock and light cans. The next morning we were greeted with this crap! "Nice isn't it". These "son of a bitches" had absolutely no respect for the homeowner or us. The general contractor seemed nonchalant about it until I picked up a roll of flooring material and threw it through the living room into the garage after downloading on him. He left the jobsite.

My old pitching coach always hammered home the importance of follow through, and in this case follow up. Whenever we were done at the end of the day we wrapped up the cords, rolled up the canvas floor covers, stacked the tools neatly in a corner, unplugged and shut down all power supplies, swept and vacuumed the work area. Then we hauled out the trash. "Every day on every job we do this".

I know who the contractors were on this job and they are useless. These guys are the ones that give the good guys a bad name. "I gotta tell you this kind of lack of respect makes me inconsolably furious". It's all around bad form and a reflection of the general contractors work product. Shoddy crap is all you can expect from this guy and if we ever cross paths again I will let the homeowner know to keep a sharp eye on this slob. You can bet I will.

While we are on the subject of clean up, our shop has a Granite department for counter tops and such. Most of the time holes for the sink fixtures are cut on site and in place. A lot of dust and granite material drops under the top along with the granite cores from as many as four fixture holes.

We are usually tasked with installing and hooking up the plumbing fixtures under the sinks, where all the dust, dirt and debris falls. We clean it up before we can begin our work. "Do you see an issue brewing here?"

Getting it right

2009-09-23T13:31:00.000-07:00

There are a number of aspects of a tile job that require proper installation. Here is a list.
1. Backing, should be a concrete or cement based material when used with thinset
2. Thinset, must be mixed properly for the application. There are times when you would want a thicker mud and times when you want a thinner or more liquid mix.
3. Mastic, generally used on backsplashes and on shower walls with greenboard and a light 4x4 or 6x6 tile
4. Framing, studs that hold the backing should be plumb and straight. If not, you will run into issues when trying to get your tile straight. It isn't much fun having to cut every single tile a different size to cover and out of plumb wall
5. Grout, there are two different types. Sanded and nonsanded. Nonsanded for 1/8th inch or less grout lines. Sanded for for wider lines. Use water sparingly in mixing grout because you will find yourself adding more and more grout to thicken up the mix. Follow and read the directions.

Nice Little Tile Conveniences

2009-09-09T21:44:00.000-07:00

When remodeling your bathroom, go the extra hundred bucks or so and add a niche or two. Example, a lot of women like to shave their legs in the shower. So, when speaking with a customer some time ago I suggested a small niche step or a place to rest her foot when shaving.

We had removed the tub and replaced it with a larger shower. The wife had used the edge of the tub for shaving but that would no longer be available. So we installed a niche at the height that would be comfortable for her. Worked out well. There were three niches in this particular shower but each had a function.

It is important that you interact with tile installers when building your shower. We like to do that for several reasons but primarily to reinforce confidence in the customer that they will get what they want and need. We like feedback for elevation of faucet handles, shower heads, and niche locations and sizes to be sure you can get your favorite shampoo container in there.

Now, for most niches you could be limited in location due to position of existing studs. If location of a niche requires moving a stud or adding a header then you can experience more expense. But, generally we've had good success with existing framing by locating the niche a little to the left or right of your ideal position.

Corner ledges are inexpensive and a simple install. They work well too. Just be sure they are not in too high or in a position where you could bang into them. In some installs we've placed a couple.

When rebuilding a shower you have an opportunity to customize. All of these little extras do cost but they are functional and add style.

Budgeting for a Bathroom Tile Remodel

2009-08-04T20:55:00.001-07:00

Here is a simple catch phrase when budgeting for your bathroom tile remodel. "Expect the unexpected!" And I would add, expect to spend even more money than budgeted. At least have an extra couple grand or so on a credit card so you can get the job completed correctly.

In the example above, we tore out the old shower and tile because the shower pan was leaking as well as water leaking through the old tile grout lines. This destroyed the green board backing over time loosening the tile. You can see how the water penetration discolored the studs at the attach points on the left side. Click the photo to enlarge and you can see the discoloration of the concrete from the leaking shower pan.

After ripping out the tile and backing we found another "unexpected issue". "At least for the homeowners". "Ants", "Acrobat ants" to be more correct according to the exterminator dude. Although we've seen these critters before it is amazing how much damage they can do without being seen behind the walls.

Most of the damage was down low and we found literally thousands of these ants congregated up at the top plates too. In this instance we had to cease construction until exterminator dude killed the little rippers and the chemicals had some time to dissipate.

Upon continuing the project, we ended up removing the entire back wall that faced the back yard much to the dismay of the homeowner to replace the damaged studs and plate stock. The damage even went into the exterior paneling so we had to replace that too.

So, this seemingly simple project required a lost day of work, we added framing, installed exterior board, exterior paneling, exterior trim, insulation and vapor barrier. All of this was extra except for the vapor barrier. Replacing a single stud will cost you anywhere from $25.00 to $45.00 each and when you have a corners, tees or headers you are easily looking at hundreds of dollars to replace framing.

"Why so much when you can buy studs few a few bucks each at Home Depot?", here's your answer. We show up to work tile and yea, in that process we may have to do a little framing. But, when something like the above occurs we have to stop work, think very carefully about how to correct the problem which requires time. This time is required to plan. We have to determine "what" we have to replace and and "how" to replace it. We have to determine the consequences of replacing studs like structural needs, water lines, power lines, vent lines and stacks, access panels, light fixtures, electrical boxes, and half a dozen other considerations like nail pops on the other side of the wall that faces the living room. You don't want to have to repair and paint the kitchen because a couple dim bulbs pulled studs out destroying that neat faux paint job in your kitchen do you? Plus, expect to pay at least $100 for a road trip to the hardware store to pick up the needed construction materials.

So you ask, "what do you need, I'll go get it for you and save that $100 bucks?" Nope, it doesn't work that way. We are responsible to warranty the project and we want to be able to select the straightest studs and best materials for the job is- the answer you will get.

So, with the above in mind please be aware that when you budget for a bathroom remodel, keep a couple grand available above the estimate for studs, exterior paneling, sheet rock, paint, insulation, an exterminator dude, an electrician, PVC encased in concrete, unexpected jack hammer time, mold, and a number of other issues.

Tile Work, Busting Concrete

2009-07-26T17:14:00.001-07:00

A lot of unexpected issues arise in bathroom tile remodel projects. Click to enlarge the photo and you'll see what I mean.

We needed to move the PVC drain line shown but it was actually embedded in the concrete beam. This lack of care in the initial construction of the home created an added expense that neither the homeowner nor the contractor can know.

In this case it took me at least a couple hours of careful chipping with an electric chisel to manufacture enough space to move the drain without damaging it further. Had I punched a hole in it I would have had to remove even more concrete to repair that hole. This can go on and on.

This wasn't the first time we had discovered PVC buried in concrete as unfortunately it happens frequently. So, in any remodel expect the unexpected and expect that it will always take a little more time and a bit more money.

Tile Setters, a Multi-Tasker

2009-07-12T10:34:00.000-07:00

Setting tile requires knowledge in a number of areas. You have to know basic structural construction and advanced in some homes for proper demolition. You have to know a lot about plumbing, mixing concrete, building forms, adhesives, demo tools and use, electrical, artistic design, materials use and proper application, customer service and a lot more.

When engaged in the demo process it is a lot easier to have the Tile Contractor remove plumbing fixtures which sometimes require a torch, copper fittings, remove electrical fixtures and more. The process of scheduling an electrical contractor and a plumber and a carpenter into this process can become a scheduling nightmare particularly when you add in the permitting process.

One problem with being a jack of all trades is that most are not licensed in a single profession. A tile setter who is a licensed plumber and electrician will find much higher pay and steadier work doing just electrical or plumbing.

So, you will find some tile contractors that may have a licensed electrician and a licensed plumber but setting tile may not be their primary service. It would be hard to keep a single tradesman busy performing electrical or just plumbing when the trade demands $25.00 and hour and more in just the tile business.

Perhaps larger shops have that capability but I have yet to see one. Having said that we have worked with customers that insisted on having their plumber come in and do the basic plumbing and for multi-head showers we almost always had to stop work and have them return to move piping for fixtures to make the job look proper. This is one of the industries ongoing dilemmas that will not go away soon.

Having a construction permit, licensed plumber, or electrician to do the basic work is code in most municipalities for good reason. However, 100% by the book will cost the homeowner considerably more money due to the added expense and time and I haven't seen too many over the years willing to spend the extra cash.

Some time ago we had to replace a gas hot water heater in a foreclosure we were working on. I ran down to Home Depot and picked a new one up planning to install it. I've done this many times over the years and only takes about 30 minutes if you have all the tools and fittings. As I was backing into the driveway a city building inspector happened to drive by, stopped and casually asked what we were doing. I responded we were replacing the hot water heater. The end of the story is I spent $325.00 for a plumber and permit on top of the cost of the hot water heater to have it installed.